Reach Climbing Coach

Why ReAch?...Malta

2012-03-12T12:00:00.000Z

Malta new route gear

When I first came up with the idea of ReAch Climbing Coach, I was sure of one thing... I knew that I knew NOTHING!

...and from there, I have been training, learning, coaching, researching, training, coaching, learning and of course climbing!

It's easy to get lost in your own self and not maintain a life long learning philosophy which, for me, is the most important part of coaching. I reckon it will take me another 2 years before I feel qualified in myself to deliver the most exceptional coaching experience and that is what I search for...

For me, ReAch is not a brand, a company but a PHILOSOPHY... an adventure for the coaches and the lucky members of 'fight club' searching for more from themselves, taking inspiration from others, working hard with the training tools made available, learning to train harder on their own, creating an online record that becomes a map to success and learning to be brave and get more from themselves... being the best YOU can be and not accepting compromise in your life!

Working with what you have got and staying focused...

When I trained for 8a in 6 months in 2010 I was restricted by my equipment and capacity to upgrade, but I can tell you with 100% honesty that when my old boots wore out that I was prepared to train harder for the 8a so that I could take more weight on my fingers and tape my shoes with gaffa tape if i had to to send the project. This is just about being focused... knowing you can and will do it...

taking time out for solitude and reflection and some soft rock loving

Finding a crag or a place that is just your little space where when times get hard and the training seems difficult, then you can go there and chill right out... important... find your place.

Setting targets

Setting simple achievable, variable goals.. a must. simple!

take inspiration from others... Bund Ninja 3 on his
(8c+) Blood Diamond before he got 'Hungry'!

taking inspiration from others. I was lucky enough to meet Malcolm S and others who had the same work ethic and appreciation of training as me (though Malcolm is world class!). Taking inspiration is a must, without that you wont push through and get more from yourself like what you see in others.

1980's training logbook

Being consistant is everything.. My old training logs are not relevant in the modern context but they were the inspiration that reminded me of how consitant I was in my training and focus for being as good in climbing as I could....Consistancy

working on your own ...rope solo at Dunkeld

Sometimes, I wanted to climb and work a route when no one was available or the weather wasn't the best... being project minded allows one to put the real effort into getting soemthing done, because focus is there every day when i looked at my online program.

Walking into the lions den knowing you cant win this time...BLCC's 2011

This is the most important element for me, being brave and trying knowing you might fail this time....

--------------------------

Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details of our unique Dual Factor online programs, 1:1 training contracts and coaching sessions.

Mark will be available for coaching sessions on Malta from 14th to 31st March.

REAL-ROCK TRAD TRIP

2012-03-12T08:44:00.000Z

Scotland North-West:

We will spend a week climbing sea cliffs in the north-west which may include Reiff, Rhue,Sheigra .
Mountain scrambles or multi -pitch climbs at Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor,or Cul Beag
Bouldering at Rhue, Ardmair, Reiff
the list is endless!

This course will run from mon 2nd of July until fri 6th of July.
Four days climbing ,coaching and instruction .
One day rest/bad weather day.

Photo: James Dunn

COURSE DISCRIPTION

This course will mainly focus on traditional climbing.
Gear placements
Building belays
Leading and seconding trad routes.
Manageing risk.
Onsight tactics.
Technique on rock
Route reading
Long term development pathway.
Abseiling
with additional options for scrambling, multi-pitch,bouldering,gorge walking and hill-walking.

This course will be delievered by Pamela Millar who is a Mountain Instructor ,loves climbing big remote mountain routes or multi-pitch sea cliff climbing.During the winter Pamela spends her time climbing Scottish mix and ice climbing .
Neil McGeachy - National team coach & passionate Scottish Trad Climber will be on hand to offer tip and techniques on performance on the sharp end.

9AM TILL 5PM EACH DAY .
Spaces for 8 kids (with a parent/gardian)
Price : £150 per child

Ratio 1:4

Equipment required.... harness, rock shoes, chalk, helmet, waterproofs(jacket +trousers), walking boots or shoes,warm clothes ,sun tan lotion, midge repellent.

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coach: Fontainebleau Bouldering October 15th – 19th 2012

2012-03-09T17:27:00.000Z

Cost £150

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coaching are arranging a youth coaching event in Fontainebleau, one of the worlds most popularbouldering destinations. This will be from October 15^th-19^th(during the Scottish School Holiday) and is being organised and delivered by Neill Busby, Mark McGowan and Gaz Vincent.

The Fontainebleau bouldering meet is beingsupported by the MCofS by providing elite coaches for the 4 days of coachingduring the 5 day event. The cost to cover coaching is £150 per child - £37.50/day.

Aims:

Our aim is to introduceparticipants to the best bouldering that Fontainebleauhas to offer. Each day our coaches will run workshops on various techniques andtactics needed to climb on the famous sandstone boulders. Our other aim is toprovide coaching and advice to parents to encourage more independence to getoutside more. We expect all the adults / parents to take an active role in theevent, coaches will help parents understand etiquette and safety issues atcrags where their children will be climbing.

Parent / CoachResponsibility:

Whilst on the meet, thecoaches are responsible for the safety of the kids (and you!) when beingcoached at the crag (or its approach). At all other times you are responsiblefor your own and your child’s safety and wellbeing, as well as their behaviour.

Booking Your Place:

If you are interested pleasesend the attached application form to MCofS either via email (to: admin@mcofs.org.uk) or by post, to bookyour place. Can you please indicate your method of payment.

Once we have the minimumnumbers required to make the event viable we shall notify you and confirm themeet will go ahead you will be able to book flights and accommodation.

Consent:

Please fill in theattached Consent Form and return by email to me. If you have already completedand sent in a MCofS Consent Form there is no need to complete another one, but pleaseindicate on the application form any changes that might be required.

Please note:

Applications must be sent back only to MCS either by email to admin@mcofs.org.uk, or by post.
Payment for the coaching can be made by phone, PayPal or cheque to MCofS.
Confirmation will be returned by email (or post) by Jane at MCS office.
A Parent (and their child attending the event) must sign a MCofS consent form (please simply insert you names when replying by email and date it). A parent must take responsibility for the child(s) behaviour at all times when not climbing. The coaches are responsible for the child whilst being coached.
If someone else is taking responsibility for your child at the event they must be indicated on the form.
Climbers need to bring their own personal climbing equipment (rock shoes, chalk bag, harness, belay plate, rope and helmet).
General information is contained in the attached Parental Information document.
Finally, I draw your attention to the MCofS Code of Conduct expected at our events.

Resources:

Report on MCofS Coaching Induction

2012-03-05T23:35:00.001Z

Sunday the 4th March saw Scottish coaches descend on Perth High School for the first MCofS Coaches Gathering & Induction. The event was attended by coaches, who are active within the varied Scottish Youth Development scene, as well as Area Youth Coordinators. The ethos of this event was to provide an opportunity for professionals to come together and share ideas, observe coaching techniques & discuss up and coming initiatives the MCofS aim to deliver over the coming months. The gathering also served as an opportunity to introduce the current 3 tier MCofS Youth Coaching Structure [Aspirant Coach, Assistant Coach & Full Coach], outlining the job descriptions of each post & explaining the pathways [i.e. shadowing & training] in place to progress through the structure.

The day kicked off with talks from;

Tony McClelland [Head of Outdoor Education - Perth High School]. Discussing the story of climbing within the school set up. Explaining how the came about obtaining such a great climbing facility & how this has grown in to one of the most successful regional climbing development initiatives in Scotland.
Neil McGeachy [ReAch Coaching & MCofS Scottish Team Coach]. Discussing the roles of MCofS, its coaches & setters in the development of Scottish Team members. Also discussing the MCofS Youth Development Ethos of promoting increased pathways in to the outdoors for climbers of all levels and ages. Aiming to promote varied and active life long futures within the sport for our country's young climbers.
Neill Busby [MCofS British Team Representative]. Discussing how MCofS works to help nurture & support our country's elite young climbers. He talked about coaching support, previous & current success stories & future ambitions.

These talks provided a great over view of how healthy all levels of youth development within Scottish climbing are. They also illustrated how well these levels serve in supporting each other and provide clear logical support pathways in the climbing journey;

Numbers are up in all Scottish competitions,
Regional youth clubs and performance squads are popping up all over the place,
The school climbing competitions scene is growing massively and beginning to feed the Youth Climbing Series
Outdoor Real Rock Initiatives are being better attended than ever
We have enjoyed an 8 year period of producing many of the UK's most successful International competitors. Currently holding 9 slots on the British Junior Climbing Squad.

This continued growth and development means more than ever we need a diverse and extensive pool of MCofS performance coaches to draw from & also require a strategy in place to begin the process of bringing through future coaches & making the whole set up more sustainable long term. This Gathering & Induction was the beginning of this process.

After the talks the coaches were given time to study the hand outs provided on 'Training guidelines for YCS Finalists'. These documents offered info on MCofS & ReAch's stance on appropriate training & injury avoidance when coaching young performance climbers. The day then progressed to a series of short coaching workshops delivered by a selection of assistant coaches & full coaches on the MCofS coaching program.

Coaching Workshops Delivered;

Pamela Miller - Coaching route reading & sequence memory

Neill Busby - Balance & body positioning on steep ground

Ian Sneddon - Variety of uses of Add on in coaching

Natalie Berry - Competition Tactics

Ross Kirkland - Activities for coaching precise footwork

Ross Hunter - Using video analysis in coaching

Neil McGeachy - Coaching momentum & advance balance techniques

The day rounded up with an opportunity for every one to have a group discussion on the role of coaching within youth development & how we can build on the success the current set up. All in all today was a great success and as a member of the MCofS coaching team for more than 12 years, it was extremely rewarding to see so many of the aspirants, assistants & coaches in attendance being young climbers who have progressed through the set up as talented climbers themselves. Thus showing the on going culture of Scottish Climbers putting something back into the development of the sport. Very exciting times lies ahead.

Chaining 8b : the training journey so far...

2012-03-03T10:52:00.001Z

Since making my mind up to train hard again towards chaining my 8b ambition this year, I have been focusing the priority on my elbow rehab first in combination with basic weight and fitness conditioning to get me fit enough to take a training pounding over the next 30 weeks or so.

Flexibility and lack of core fitness and strength are my obvious weaknesses as a climber and so I am focusing on these in particluar with stretching every day and working a little harder on core. I am more concerned right now with creating a flexiblity across my body first then i will build a stronger core through both training and climbing on approriately steep rock in coming weeks.

Most weeks are filled with easy route climbing to keep the head and fingers ticking over while I prepare the other areas and each day is filled with as much inspiration as i can un earth to drive me forward to ocho b...

I took a trip into Spain to visit a great friend and coach for a day in the Spanish Pirineos on a great canyon crag housing an awesome 7b. We used my red point strategies to help provide my friend with more structure in improving her approach to projecting and so we shaped the whole day around that single process of working for a red point instead of just trying something at your limit to see how you get on...

Prepare your day, your mind and your body then you will produce a better performance and ultimately succeed in red pointing the project at your true limit instead of some miss informed percieved limit.

http://lisiroig.blogspot.com/

Mi amiga Sonia using ReAch red point strategy on her 7b proyecto

sonia feliz en su paraíso Pirineos!

Then it was down into Barcelona to meet the cool guys from JM Climbing to discuss the Eva Lopez Transgression and Progression systems to help me train to 8b. Having studied the training strategy I have worked out my plan with the system and it looks like I will opt for the following:

A first phase of a 5 week block on Maximal Strength Development
2 week rest
second phase of 8 week Strength Endurance phase
2 week rest
8 week Advanced Maximal Strength phase
2 week rest
8 week Advanced Strength Endurance phase

But before this, I prepare my body for conditioning to take on a 35 week program here in Pirineos but first hopefully off to Malta with Stevie Haston to get me climbing fit and open some new cliffs for the Malta Climbing Club ...

Back over into the Pirineos de Francia

Rehab, preparations and mas estudiar

Midnight runs when it's cool in the Pyrenees near Foix

http://www.maltaclimbingclub.com/stevie-haston-on-route-development-in-malta/

Stevie Haston Joins ReAch Climbing Coach!

2012-02-22T21:43:00.000Z

I drove up the mountain today to meet a friend and a true inspiration to me as a trainer to discuss coaching in the UK, coaching in Spain, coaching in the Pyrenees and finally coaching in Malta!. I first met Stevie when I was 17 in Wales and as someone who has always personaly loved training as much as climbing, Stevie is like THE Boss in training. His experience is a given but we are both agreed on the concept of change that climbing coaching is embarking upon and I am delighted to anounce his joining ReAch Climbing Coach.

I set off on this training journey in 2010 and tonight in a small village in the Pyrenees I am truly inpsired by the discussions, the plans and the outcome of having Stevie Haston (Alpiniste) join this great coaching journey...

http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/

Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak: Putting the right people around you...

2012-02-21T22:18:00.001Z

A room with a view!

Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak... These are words, his words, in his own house of training pain.

He is also an inspiring, conditioned athlete, who is strong... but I concur with him on the ugly as he is not anywhere near as handsome as me...

Inspiration:

I have never struggled to take this from others, but first you need to find them, then put them in your life.

Ruth

I'm currently staying with the first British woman to climb 8b: Stunt woman - Ruth Jenkins and today, I visited my old friend, athlete and Alpiniste Stevie Haston for a very specific reason...

to help me with my rehab
to help me prepare and condition to train to a new level
to provide with good direction in my training and analyse my weaknesses
to inspire

He scored me on the following:

Flex 0/10
Core 2/10
Fingers crimp strength 6/10
Open handed 3/10
Dumbness 2/10

Now, there is no point going to someone who just tell you lies, but a 6 for crimp strength... that hurt!

Uncovering weakness honestly is the first most important tactic in designing a training strategy because it is this that leverages obvious improvements quickly. Then the smart stuff needs to be designed that services the project requirements (in my case 8b) and the individuals capacity to cope with the training volumes and intensities.

So today, I have gone a step further in my quest. Now i need to search for my sexy new best friend for 2012... she is called the proyecto and she goes by the name of 8b! venga!

Entrenamiento: encadenar a 8b

For Poland ...Trening dla maksymalnej sily palcow.(Maximal Finger Strength.)

2012-02-17T22:31:00.000Z

Thanks to my Polish friend Agnieszka, we now have our first Polish translated training doc available online for 5.00 EUROS payable via paypal.

La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada by Haroun Souirji

2012-02-15T22:51:00.002Z

La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.

The 'Mind' of a project...

2012-02-11T11:58:00.002Z

Recently I was flattered to be recognized by an awesome Spanish female climber and trainer who is rigorous in her study of the training for sport climbing. (http://www.facebook.com/evalopezriv/posts/2904009751866)

Eva Lopez has impressed me greatly, not just by her climbing (8c - that is amazing and stands for itself!) but by her approach to research and it is this which interests me allot for now.

Having the patience and strategic intent to do a great , in depth job of understanding a key element to improving one's climbing is something I have slowly began to try and unfold. Being in contact with Eva recently has certainly reminded me of how I need to be more long term minded about my climbing strategies especially to help me get to the next level and break a psychological barrier for myself.

This all got me thinking about my previous approach when I started back in 2010 with 6a to 8a and I just remembered the most important thing that drove the whole process... The project and my mindset that allowed me to complete it.

It just came back to me as I was thinking about my new project and the frustrations that are in the way (current elbow injury, 4 kilos of extra weight - which was intentional to train with in a bouldering environment since October BLCC's to increase my maximal strength but i over cooked it!), then I began to get that feeling again... that certain knowing feeling, when I am beginning to realize that I am going to do this project.., because I want it!

The importance of it for me, has to outweigh all the other things in my life for that period of the project and so, that is a big requirement for any human being, especially in this fast paced world full of things that are allowed to get in the way of staying focused on a particularly personal objective. But the answer before was for me to build my life around the project, not build the project around my life...

And so, I want to be trained over a sustainable period of the project that will allow me to make the changes and truly facilitate what needs to happen to my body to achieve the goal... Climb with much better climbers who have the experience, be motivated by them and trust in myself by making action in my daily life over wishful thinking.

I fell off a 7b in Cubells near Lleida with mi amiga from Monistrol when here at Christmas after my knee operation and although 8b just felt so far away then (still does now) I told her I needed to fall on a route since my operation, because only then could i begin to start trying hard again - trying close to my true limit.

The mind obviously drives this and it is the holder of motivation and the value that I have to place on achieving this goal, firstly has to make sense: The plan must be capable 'as a strategy for success' and address all the outcomes in it's path including my own weaknesses and self doubts. But I understand I have to have that singular simple belief that I will climb 8b and then, I use my head to get me there.

So for me, ocho b (8b) is not a number anymore..It's my new life and those 'chains' will be soooooooooooo sweet.. this i know, but the journey, the journey is what i love... Vamos!

Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ...

2012-01-25T13:07:00.002Z

Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ... en contacto con Mark markmcgowan01@gmail.com directa a preguntar por precios o concertar una reunión.

Montserrat, Cataluna

Alex tirando con fuerza con el apoyo del entrenador!

el duo de locos!Sant Benet, Montserrat

Jo demostrando un buen talon en f7a en Can Bouquet puede cerca de Barcelona

Inspiration...

2012-01-22T17:00:00.001Z

Paul Pritchard on Rainbow Slab from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

Paul & JD

If I'm honest, I cried when I first saw this video of my two friends, whom I hadn't seen since the time of the photo below the video. Paul and Johnny are both great and inspiring people and I can only tip my hat to Paul for his awesome bravery and to Johnny for his openness and kindness... Such friends are always an inspiration to live bigger and try just a little harder... (Mark McGowan)

Training with the psyched female climber...

2012-01-21T21:07:00.000Z

The CamPUS - perhaps the biggest strength gains system..

Coaching the psyched female climber has become something I have found myself doing more and more over the last year. From a male coach's point of view; it is very interesting to visit the female climbing world from up close. It has struck me that the male climbing perspective is different in one main way:

The main difference is how male climbers' perceive the world of the psyched female boulderer or route climber:

The difference between a psyched female climber wanting to be the best she can and a psyched male climber is NADA ...NOTHING! And that seems to be the crux of the less motivated male to understand when in the company of a strong psyched female rock climber.

Jo squeezing the shit out of the granite bloc at Can Bouquet, near Barcelona!

Training session en Barcelona

Another psyched Catalan climber at Sant Benet, Montserrat, Espana

Another interesting area is the CamPUS board, which is potentially the best system for delivering the highest climbing strength gains, yet in Scotland it is not used by both genders in a balanced way. This has nothing to do with the system, just the culture in the sport perhaps?

Female climbers seem more open to coaching in Scotland than males and I find the most exciting part of my personal coaching journey over the last few months is being placed alongside the female climber in a predominately male sport. Various issues are present but the initial level of courage that it takes to deal with having more attention on them than a guy at the local wall is a real factor that is present.

From my point of view it felt nearly as intense as being in a climbing competition environment with allot of eyes on us while we trained together over the last 2 months in Glasgow and Barcelona...

Jo at ReAch Climbing Coach doing finger strength work

Marie on campus moves at ReAch for power

Finger strength work on 45 board

The machine: Amanda has a complete room in her home dedicated to her climbing training with 4 different boards at different angles and various systems training devices to keep her strong and maintain the combination of a hard training regime and a professional working life...

Amanda on a campus session at Ratho

la maquina sending her 7c project

Amanda enjoying her other machine after board session in her house

In the end, the determined athlete quickly breaks down these and many other barriers to succeed in their sport and I am extremely exited that Scotland has allot of strong female climbers and many more in the making especially with the new facilities that we have such as recently opened world class TCA Glasgow bouldering wall. VENGA!

TCA Glasgow

The female seniors final line up at the BLCCs in EICA - October 2011

For further information on Reach Climbing Coach 1:1 coaching and training sessions in Scotland or Spain (Cataluña) please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

"...working with Mark was a massively positive experience for me. Mark has a well known infectious mad psyche and belief in himself and his clients, it's really hard to fail in that environment". (Amanda Lyons)

FULL OF MYSELF... Johnny Dawes book Launch

2011-10-21T19:05:00.001+01:00

FULL OF MYSELF

"Written with devoted passion and brutal honesty, Full of Myself lays bare Johnny's bipolar mix of privilege and pain, wizardry and dysfunction. Master of friction and momentum, the living embodiment of poetry in motion turns his hand to pen with great effect."
Leo Houlding

"It's brilliant - frank, funny, telling his full life story, not just the climbing. And the climbing accounts are riveting as well. A great read from cover to cover."
Sir Chris Bonington

"Much like his climbing, his imagination leaps. This is a beautiful book about an extraordinary person. William Blake with sticky boots."
Simon Beaufoy (Academy Award Winning Screen Writer - Slum Dog Millionaire, Full Monty, 127 Hours)

"I don't climb, I ride bikes, but this book got me by the balls!!!"
Steve Peat (World Downhill Mountainbike champion)

"Johnny always seemed some kind of freak from the very first picture of him I ever saw. I could see positive freakiness that made him go out of the ordinary, to climb those things that must be admired and that should inspire many to come."
Adam Ondra

To buy a hot off the press signed hardback copy, click on the Buy Now button.

£25

British Lead Climbing Championships 2011

2011-10-17T21:53:00.002+01:00

The competition wall at EICA Ratho

The Junior, Youth and Veterans categories were held on Saturday 15th. On the second day, Sunday 16th, the senior BLCCs, and the British Speed Climbing Championships, were held.The BMC British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCCs) were held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday and Sunday 15th & 16th October 2011.

Junior & Youth Results
Female Juniors1. Lucy Mitchell
2. Jessica MCCaskey
Male Juniors1. Ed Hamer
2. Luke Tilley
3. Jonathan Field
Female Youth A1. Charlotte Garden
2. Sarah Pashley
3. Jennifer Wood
Male Youth A1. Jonny White
2. Tom Bonnert
3. Andrew Colligan
Female Youth B1. Molly Thompson-Smith
2. Rachel Carr
3. Tara Hayes
Male Youth B1. Connor Byrne
2. Dominic Burns
3. Brendan Gallagher
Female Youth C1. Ellisa Bryant
2. Carmel Moran
3. Hannah Slaney
Male Youth C1. Angus Davidson
2. William Bosi
3. James Pope
The male veterans competition also took place on Saturday 15th. No female veterans entered hence there was no competition.

Male Veterans 1. Eddie Cooper
2. Mark Richardson
3. Nick Colton
Click here for full results of the junior BLCC

Senior Results
The senior BLCCs were held on the Sunday, 16th November.
In two really exciting finals, boulderer Dave Barrans pipped Ed Hamer. In the female final, last woman out, Shauna Coxsey, moved one hold past Nat Berry's high point to clip the lower-off to loud cheers. Totally absorbing!
Female Senior
1. Shauna Coxsey
2. Natalie Berry
3. Michaela Tracy
Male Senior
1. Dave Barrans
2. Ed Hamer
3. Luke Tilley
Click here for full results of the senior BLCC

Speed Climbing results
More information about the BLCCs and the BSCCs here
BMC thanks supporters
The BMC would like to thank all those who contributed to the success of the event. This includes the vast number of enthusiatic volunteers who do such a fantastic job. They judge, chaperone, belay, score the event, register competitors, allocate T-shirts, warm up competitors, run errands, and so on, the list is virtually endless. The event really couldn't take place without their outstanding and unstinting support. And, also, let's not forget the competitors themselves and all their numerous supporters!
Thanks also go to all the professionals who work at the event. This includes the owners and staff at EICA Ratho for making us feel so welcome and putting in a huge effort to make the final a success, the commentator Ian Smith, the route-setters for great routes, BMC staff both present at the event and those in the office who work behind the scenes.
And finally, thanks to all the sponsors who supported both the BMC in putting on this event. These include EICA, Mammut, and Entre-prises.
By Nick Colton

Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training

2011-09-16T20:30:00.001+01:00

Increasing strength is a great way to crack the concrete of a climbing plateau and systems training seems to be the best way that I have found to increase my finger strength...not bouldering. Bouldering is not as deep and is great for honing power but I have always found that structured systems training the most effective then followed by bouldering. To pull powerfully from one hold to another on a boulder problem, you must first be able to hold and pull on the hold first! This is finger 'strength' not power...

To shift into a new level of climbing requires change to what you are doing and for that I find you also need a commitment to the process of what you are trying to achieve...

I have always found that a particular focus on one strategy for a time period of just two weeks with total consistency in the training and recovery provides noticeable results. I have recently been focused on trying to establish a new level of Power Endurance and to do that I have been using a mix of plyometrics and absolute strength tactics to try and lift my capacity for singular power to a higher level before attempting to convert to power endurance.

This style of training (plyometrics), tends to require not only a higher level of strength to control the shock loading as it penetrates the nervous system, but also longer recovery on particular exercises is required.

For our Advanced Plyo-Systems Training Program then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

Lead and Speed Climbing Coaching Sessions for Kids at EICA: Ratho

2011-09-12T16:53:00.000+01:00

Friday 9th September 2011

Scottish Youth Event
Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching Prep
Date: 1st October 2011
Venue: EICA: Ratho

Each year MCofS has organised a prep weekend for children who wish to enter the British Championships. This year, for the first time, a Speed Climbing Championship will also be held and the MCofS prep event will this year include advice, information and coaching in speed climbing from MCofS coach Neil McGeachy (ReAch Coaching) and EICA Instructor Callum Forsyth, ably assistend by Scott Forsyth and Sandy Carr from the Quickdraw Club who helped organise the speed discipline for the recent IFSC European Youth Cup.

With the British Championships being held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena this year, the MCofS prep event is being organised in association with EICA: Ratho and is open to all children who competed in the Youth Climbing Series in Scotland, members of the GB Team and any other children resident in Scotland between 13yr and 19yrs old who may wish to have a go.

Nic Crawshaw, EICA Climbing Instructor Team Leader said,
"We are delighted to be hosting the first ever British Speed Climbing Championship at the EICA. We have the only IFSC world record format speed wall in the UK and have athletes from as far afield as the USA coming to train on the facility. Speed climbing is shortlisted as a future Olympic sport and with support from the MCofS this facility will allow us to train the champions of tommorrow."

Full details and an application form can be downloaded from the 'Kids Events' page. Non Members of MCofS can attend: they must join the MCofS (in order to ensure liability insurance) as Youth Members which is being offered at the reduced rate of £10.

NOTE:
The BLCC 2011 will be held at EICA: Ratho on the weekend of October 15th - 16th. For the first time it will include a Speed Climbing Championship on the purpose built speed wall in the Arena. The competition is open to anyone resident in the UK. There are 11 categories of Youth, Junior, Senior and Veteran for climbers born between 1967 and 1992.

Children born between 1992 and 1998 are eligible to compete in the BLCC. They MUST be capable of climbing on lead.Competing in the Speed competition involves top-rope climbing belayed from below. Climbers can compete in both disciplines.

More details of the British Championships can be found HERE

Johnny Dawes’ Essentials of Elegant Motion

2011-07-30T15:10:00.001+01:00

Johnny Dawes’ essentials of elegant motion

“There are so many rock types, so many different climbers it seems improbable there exists a coaching method that could account for all circumstances. The foundation for such a method would have to be a hard and fast rule and there is just such a rule – the equivalent in climbing of the racing line on a racetrack – an easiest, fastest way…”

[Each hold has a particular direction in which it works best. Place your elbow or knee in line with that direction and more purchase from the hold results and progress is easier]

Commonly climbers do two moves every time they make a move to a new hold; one to get the hold and then one to settle onto it in the direction it works best. Start from a very slightly different position, go straight to the sweet spot on the next hold and you do half the moves!

I split my explanation into the What, How and When to move.

What to use:

Select holds furthest away from the plane of the face; sometimes a lesser hold in an outer position makes a move less strenuous.

Spot oppositions; when clamping or bridging becomes involved the stocks, bonds and dividends of legs, back and waist can be used rather than always dipping into the crucial current account of the forearm.

Solve sequence; look at what could be used as a hold, noting which hand it works with, and whether you can use both hands or feet on it.

How to move

It is understandable technique goes wrong so regularly. Already in a position you’re comfortable in, why move anywhere but directly to the next hold. But how you do that makes all the difference. Imagine the easiest shape of your whole body on the next hold and hit that rather than go directly to the hold the easiest way and a host of benefits become clear:

The move is more likely to be successful.
To be less injurious.
To be less wearing.
To be felt before it happens allowing confidence to

opens up the possibility to feel the fall the move threatens to make, move your body in that very direction first, before moving and the secondary move, complete with it’s skin tearing, tendon straining jolt can be easily avoided. Your body weight will do something, you’d best work out how to move it to your advantage. Imagining the fall that a move unleashes countering it precisely, aiming for best shape on hold rather than just grabbing the hold renders the move less powerful, saving your strength, countering the fear of falling because you can feel how you are controlling it physically. Feeling holds within whole easier shapes the possibility to feel the shape after that quickly means how to build a weight reducing rhythm can

Climb less strenuously – get body weight to move to your advantage rather than just drag you off.

Protect one’s body from injury – by making the moves more gradually impact forces are reduced.

Work out how to do moves you can’t do by hanging on and memorising the feel of being in the position, or using the fall to point out the vectors that are missing from your movement. You can even use this to mentally practise moves you or anyone may never climb, learning their technical lessons.

Dealing with the fear of falling – knowing how you will fall off a move you inject the exactly opposite movement to counter that fall, and too, the fear of it.

Some simplified abridged versions of the dynamic approach.

Sideways weight transferal – swinging weight over a foot to move up the other.

Inward waist thrusts – to stop you peeling back as a hand lets go to reach the other up.

Diagonal rock-over – from out and to the side, to up and over and in, onto the foothold.

Strategy, planning, purchases and research.

Whatever branch of our neurotic little activity tickles your fancy, coalescing what you want to accomplish, how you intend to do it will make adapting to inevitable changing circumstances more successful.

During my new route campaign on the Eastern front of the Peak District I kept a regularly updated list of what I wished to climb. When weather, partner slippage, gear foibles or some other unpredictable might otherwise have frustrated my efforts a clear plan made adapting easy.

Research and buy the best stuff you can afford, borrow it, swap it, use your noodle to get the kit together. Replace before you have to, keeping a lower performance alternative with which to practise handicapped or in the case of boots, which was what was on my mind, more comfortably.

Develop good practises. Clean boots, trim weight away from gear, organise so you can leave the house in a minute, pay bills, pack lunch, stretch to rest etc. Be sensitive to what things power you up and what drags you down. In Kinaesthesiology changing muscle resistance gives away what helps and hinders. Even holding a diet Coke in your other hand reduces the strength of the other so don’t be so sure you already know how everything is. Keep awake to what might help, it might even be a session on the Campus board if you don’t get injured.

All these train spotty details make a difference but more than anything being creative and dogged will out. Turn up and turn out more. Become faster, more precise, stronger with a greater variety of skills, keep note of partners with motors and gites or clever ways to move.

Johnny Dawes

---------------------------------

I will be at Edinburgh film festival 7th October. Please contact me on the following email for any course inquiries: dawesjohnny86@gmail.com or visit www.johnnydawes.co.uk

Inspiration... My friend Paul Pritchard - Trikes on the Roof of the World

2011-07-28T10:10:00.000+01:00

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/424152792/trikes-on-the-roof-of-the-world?ref=live

Amanda Did it ...'Dinnet Do It' (7c)

2011-07-24T20:23:00.001+01:00

Amanda working her 7c project

Amanda sent her target project today 'Dinnet Do It' (7c), which is great news for her and for ReAch. I have been reducing my 1 to 1 coaching days over the last month or so as I begin to understand what I want from my coaching and helping Amanda unlock her true potential in climbing has been a huge pleasure for me. I love to see someone get something tangible back from a coaching session that is real and not just an organised exchange of information of skills or technique drills.

She has a strong commitment to her climbing and to see her get her target 3 months before her expectations is just bloody marvelous! Well done you Amanda!

I love working with people like you and continue to be inspired by your love for your climbing and your special training psyche... :-) happy days dude...

send....Happiness!

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011

2011-06-02T21:25:00.000+01:00

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011

Brief Report and pics by Kevin Howett

The SYCC was held at the EICA: Ratho on Saturday 28th May to find the Scottish Youth Champions. With a continuing bad weather forecast for strong winds and rain, there was nowhere else better to be! As a result the arena was full to brimming all day with climbers escaping the remnants of the bad storm on the Monday before. Indeed it was filled with a lot of children! A good sign for Scottish climbing!

69 children attended the competition this year with the top 5 kids from the YCS categories being invited to fight it out, current GB Team menbers, and the additional 17-19yr category. Scott Forsyth took charge on the day as Area Youth Cordinator as Simon was unable to make it due to work commitments. Avril Gall organised the day's activities and made sure the scoring went smoothly. The routes were set by Neil McGeachy and Mark McGowan, and numerous parents played an instrumental role as judges or belayers.

It proved to be a long day, with registration starting at 9am and the day finishing at 8.30pm. A warm up session led by ex-GB Team member Robert Mackenzie, ably assisted by Calum Forsyth and GB Senior Team member Natalie Berry, saw the kids running and jumping around the arena. The routes were set on the Speed Wall, the old Competition Wall and The Hanger Wall and were all demonstrated at the start of the procedings - and there were a fair number of demonstrators caught out, much to the crowd's amusement! After the qualifying rounds, and whilst waiting for the Finals Routes to be prepared, presentations were made for the winners of the Youth Climbing Series (YCS) which had concluded a few weeks before. They all recieved their winners' plaques and their Team Hoodies. IdesignI have proudly sponsored the two Scottish Teams this year.

Then the SYCC Finals were held with all the kids competing from isolation in the bouldering room so all routes were attempted on-sight. There were some superb performances from the kids with on-sights of routes judged to be F7c+, especially from those in the 11-13yr & 14-16yr categories. There was a good turn-out for the 17-19yr category with 7 boys batteling for the title of champion's position, but only Ellen Macaskill competed for the girls. Tiso sponsored the SYCC prizes this year and the original 'sport lower-off' trophies made up by Scott Muir who held the inaugural youth championship were presented to the Champions.

A full report will be available soon, but the winners are listed below:

SYCC 2011
Position	Boys	Girls
8yr-10yr Category
1st	Rhys Langlands	Rhiannon Freireich
2nd	Rory White	Keri Maclennan
3rd	Thomas Ryan	Holly Davis

11yr-13yr Category
1st	William Bosi	Kirsten Gray
2nd	Angus Davidson	Gabriella Stewart
3rd	Rory Cargill	Keira Farmer

14yr-16yr Category
1st	Stephen Addison	Rachel Carr
2nd	Dylan Mackenzie	Nikki Addison
3rd	Willis Morris	Rebekah Drummond

17yr-19yr Category
1st	Ross Kirkland	Ellen Macaskill
2nd	Alasdair Johnstone
3rd	Calum Forsyth

Sport Climbing: Fall Training or Risk, Value & Commitment?

2011-05-30T19:57:00.000+01:00

A lot of coaching focuses on this as it is obviously a big part of climbing because one falls when pushing to the limit.

However, I would suggest that the standard practice of throwing oneself off the local indoor climbing wall on a regular basis, is only a very small part of truly dealing with the fear of falling. I don't think one can eradicate it completely, and that would be destructive as one taps into that adrenaline anyway for that little bit extra. Fear can be used to drive more effort and focus but will obviously have a negative effect if it is all consuming.

So, I feel that the main thing to focus on is the psychological aspect of managing the fear of falling in a way that meets the real issue head on: RISK!

Risk Versus Value:

This is really where I think the biggest scope for improvement is. How much value that is placed on the project by the individual, whether its an on sight attempt with an unsavory run out between bolts or a project red point that is plagued with a bad clip.

If the value is low then the level of risk that one is prepared to invest is low, if the value of success is high then the level of risk that one is prepared to take is higher.

Obviously a tactic for Risk Management (assessment of risks) should be employed to mitigate the risk and also clarify what the risks and implications really are. But once sorted, then one should then be focusing on the level of value that one places on getting the route done or the style of approach required to maximize the opportunity...This level of value that you associate with it is what delivers the level of commitment in your actions.

So,

(Risk + Assessment) versus Value = Commitment

And so, if one assumes that the level of commitment is really what is the issue in respect of fall training, and that Value is really the main individual variable as most can assess risks and implement mitigating tactics etc...

So by focusing on the very personal the level of value you place on the project or on sight attempt then hopefully that will deliver a better understanding and allow you to place the 'fall' into a secondary place when focusing on the climb.

Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

2011-05-23T08:20:00.000+01:00

Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

Buscamos experimentados entrenadores de escalada que se basan en la región deCataluña.

Reach es una selección única de los entrenadores originario de Escocia, ahoratambién operan en Cataluña.

Si está interesado, por favor markmcgowan01@gmail.com contacto con tu CV ydatos de su escalada y experiencia como entrenador.

www.reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com
www.reachclimbingcoach.com

Únete a nuestro único doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 al mes

2011-05-22T21:56:00.003+01:00

Siurana Coaching

Únete a nuestro doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 por mes para el término de su plan de formación: por lo general de 4 meses.

Nos especializamos en un programa de entrenamiento con nuestro Metodologíaúnica de doble factor y han tenido muchos resultados excepcionales hasta la fecha:

Siurana

Montserrat

Terradets

Por favor, comuníquese con Mark McGowan en markmcgowan01@gmail.com para preguntar acerca de su programa dede formación en línea . Mark también está disponible de 1 a 1 sesiones de entrenamiento en el área de Barcelona escalada(200 km).

View Larger Map

ReAch de doble factor de Programa de Capacitación en línea

Mark McGowan

Ingles:

Join our 'Reach' Dual Factor Online Training Program for 25euros per month for the term of your training plan: usually 4 months.

We specialize in a training program using our unique Dual Factor methodolgy and have had many exceptional results to date:

K Gibson : 7b+ to 8a in 15 weeks
A Gordon: 6b+ to 7a in 6 weeks

Please contact Mark McGowan at markmcgowan01@gmail.com to inquire about your online training program. Mark will is also available for 1 to 1 coaching sessions within the Barcelona climbing area (200km).

Flashing 8a at 18 - Ross Kirkland Interview

2011-05-17T12:13:00.004+01:00

Ross on Zona 0 (8b) at Siurana, Spain

The Scottish youngster, Ross Kirkland joined us on our 10 week Spanish Stone trip and managed to impress me more than any other climber on the trip. At age 18 he climbed his first 8b with Zona 0 at Siurana and flashed El Segre 8a at Tres Ponts within the first few weeks of the trip. Ross' modesty and logical approach to his climbing is both impressive and inspiring. He is a special talent for Scotland in my view and has lots more to give to climbing...

MM: Hi Ross, What is your climbing background?

RK: Ive been climbing for 10 years and I started at the age of 8 at Alian Rock in Edinburgh.

I have also TRAD climbed since I was age 11 up to E5 ( a route called Strapadictomy at Froggat Edge). I mainly sport climb and redpointed to 8a at Disblia in Spain this year.

Ive competition climbed since I was 9 via the Brycks then onto the YCS and was a member of the British Youth Team for 1 year.

MM: What did flashing an 8a mean to you?

RK: It was an important step in my climbing career and I felt brilliant after doing it!

MM: What was the process that you went through to prepare for the attempted flash?

RK: I trained for a number of years and the mental process I went through was that I just decided I liked the look of the route and just wanted to do it (preferably a flash) but I figured I would give it my all.

MM: What happened during your flash ascent?

RK: I flashed it...that happened!:-) I nearly fell off the crux at 10m up. After that, the route was just about trying to deal with the pump developed at the crux. The route was 55m long and it was reasonably straight forward through the overhanging wall. However, went it went back vertical it was much more technical climbing.

Grabbing the chain, I felt a real sense of achievement of managing to flash an 8a which was so long.

MM: What advice would you give to a young aspiring climber wanting to flash or on sight at there limit?

RK: Train hard, find the correct 8a and don't over psyche yourself. then they should man up and just do it! ;-)

Ross exacting his finger strength on some crimpy filth!

Ross taking his rest day in a tree!

Marsh Mallow Barbecue!

Ross was kindly supported by the MC of S on his trip

Spanish Stone ...

2011-05-13T21:57:00.001+01:00

Reach Member Achieves target of getting from 7b+ Redpoint to 8a in 15 weeks using Reach Dual Factor Program

2011-04-24T11:24:00.000+01:00

I just heard from the UK that one of our memebers has just completed their target objective of getting from 7b+ to red pointing their first 8a in 15 weeks. Kev Gibson joined us at Reach in January and I designed Kev´s online program around my own experience of getting back to 8a as well as training together in the early winter months.

His recent success is testament to both Reach Climbing Coach and the Dual Factor Program and Kev´s own determination to push through the ceiling of expectation and belief.

Well done Kev! You are a dude!

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for your own online DF Program.

Gary Vincent joins Reach Climbing Coach

2011-04-19T20:04:00.000+01:00

Gaz on Mandala f8a+, Bishop, CA

Gaz sending Mandala f8a+, Bishop, CA

Gaz is a very highly respected Scottish climber with an awesome reputation for bouldering at the highest levels as well as a professional coaching background and a great reputation for route setting at our International Climbing Centre at Edinburgh.

Gaz will be available for 1:1/3 coaching sessions, bouldering workshops and a valued training program developer for Reach's Online Training Data Bank.

COACHING HERE IN SIURANA

2011-04-13T14:59:00.000+01:00

Contact Mark McGowan at the Siurana Campsite Café or on markmcgowan01@gmail.com for 1:1 coaching at the local crags.

Mark coaches sport climbing in English (from Scotland originaly) and is available for a 5 hr climbing day for 50 Euros

Mark is part of the Reach Climbing Coach Team and is available for coaching from 6a to 8a.

Coaching the 3 Amigos at Siurana

2011-04-13T12:15:00.000+01:00

Scott, Scotty & Malcolm

The 3 Amigos from Aberdeen Granite City Rockstars arrived in Siurana to get some outdoor climbing experience with a target of 7a red point. Two days later they were sending 7a and onsighting 2 more. So things are going in the right direction with the amigos...

A rest day today then big Thursday before they fly back to UK...

The Coach´s Hotel!

Reach Expands into Spain

2011-03-24T20:00:00.002Z

Mark McGowan has been expanding the coaching network into Spain over the last month and soon we will be offering bespoke coaching trips from UK to Spanish Stone, where Mark will tour and coach with members around the various fantastic climbing areas of Catalonia.

Neil McGeachy (Head of Youth Coaching) will head up the UK operations for 1:1 and team events.

To make inquiries for Spainish Stone coaching then contact us on:

markmcgowan01@gmail.com

Finding the flow in climbing...Spain.

2011-03-18T21:30:00.002Z

Calum Forsyth sending Colera (7b), Futbolin

I'm out with the other coaches to get some routes in and get organised for our coaching week in April.

The main thing we are all in search of at the moment is that 'flow' where your training style is left behind and morphs into a climbing style for rock.

It has taken us into the last few days of the first week to get the nerves out the system and start trying to flash and on sight at our limit.

The beginning of the 2nd week has been more about pushing a little harder in terms of getting more volume and finding a mutually effective team dynamic that brings the best out in us collectively.

As a group, Team Scotland has set out a new support strategy to drive our mutual performance and it will be interesting to see if our tactics deliver additional value.

http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/

Using 'systems' to increase bouldering standard

2011-03-06T13:24:00.000Z

Dumby

Systems

Bouldering is, I feel, about improving and honing your climbing skills at a macro level in areas such as contact strength, dynamic awareness, footwork, body positioning, technical analysis of how to work out a sequence...in my view, it is less about actual improvements in strength (though they are obviously there) and more about skills and muscle memory.

In my view systems training breaks bigger strength plateaus and bouldering is not the fastest way to getting strong; training for strength is. Obvious, yet many boulder for strength?

Strength training is about maximal slow movement in a controlled environment which is later converted to power through such things as bouldering, plyometrics etc.

Educating your body to climb harder and pushing through a plateau...

2011-03-01T14:45:00.000Z

This is one of the most difficult elements of sport and training and the reason for that is simple to me:

It is difficult...

Finding ways to shock your body into change from where it is, to where you are trying to take it, can be confusing but I suppose the simple aim is to teach it what you want it to do:

If you want it to climb 8a, then you must introduce it to 8a... If not, your body (& mind) cant really prepare for the intensity and this shock to the system begins to shut down your normal skills and strengths that have seen you in good stead on 7b+. It's the same in training...

Training for 8a from 7b+ requires more than one training push and various steps/plateaus have to be over come. To change like this, you need to introduce change that can position you for the next step in being capable of accepting the next level of training.

When I was training to climb 8a again, I new I had to get my body and mind to variouse levels that were not performance inclines but steps and plataeus that needed to be broken and stepped up to. To get from 7b+ to 8a there are probably 3 key phases:

Increasing core finger strength from a capacity to do v4 to v7
Increasing capacity to recover on F6c/F7a (route dependant) by driving endurance
Increasing Power Endurance to cope with going from F7a ground into font 6c to finsih on F7b ground. Thats an 8a!

The body struggles more to maintain a capacity to climb hard sequences in the middle or at the end of a route. Having the capacity to power up and deliver a power endurance sequence then recover on route and fininsh up a pumpy 7b wall is so much harder than firing out a harder 5 move PE blast ground up.

You need to educate your body that it can climb 7b in a mildy pumped state after powering up on a lower section. You need to educate your body that it can recover from the initial 7a entry wall and power up into a bloc crux sequence and how different it feels from doing it at ground level. You need to educate your mind to climb the route in managable sections (or even moves) maintaining a concentrated high level of effort to maintain success for the whole route.

Sometimes to break through a plataeu, you have to be radical to make that step up. I recall last year going onto Requiem in the morning ( a spooky hanging crack line) then driving 90 miles up to Glen Coe that afternoon then walking up to Fated Path in the evening to try and get myself to relax above gear and bolts again.

I had been struggling badly to climb relaxed above gear and after that day of scary exposure to an E8 6b and a big hanging 7c+ wall, I suitablably shocked myself into relaxing above the gear again. But it was a difficult task with my head wondering what the hell I was doing to myself, trying to get up Requiem in the morning then fininshing with an evening attempt above the bolts on a spooky hanging wall in Glen Coe... It worked and I found myself moving more freely above gear in slightly less daunting environments... shocking? not really...Difficult? Definately...

Will & I on Requiem (E8 6b, 8a+) at Dumbarton Rock in the morning
(Photo: Ben Lister)

Me working Fated Path (7c+) in the early evening in Glencoe
(Photo Graham Harrison)

Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe repeated by Nigel Callender...

2011-02-27T21:51:00.000Z

Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe from Nigel Callender on Vimeo.

MCofS Youth Climbing Series - Competition Preparation Coaching at Transition Extreme

2011-02-27T15:35:00.006Z

Geek & Scott shying away from the hard routes! NOT!

Geek mentoring

Jamie on 7b+ comp training

Young Ben doing fall training on lead!

Malcolm on 7b+ comp training

Transition Extreme Aberdeen

Route demo

Fall training

Rhuiri Psyching the kids for fall training

The scene

Reach Climbing Coach was hosting the YCS 'pre competition training' in advance of this weekends North Scotland Round held at Inverness Climbing Wall at Inverness Leisure Center this coming weekend.

Neil and Mark from Reach Climbing Coach along side Ruairidh Mackenzie were running the event for the MC of S with focusing on a work shop for the young competitors with Ruairidh providing some real whippers with his dynamic belays for fall training which took most participants breath away but instilled the lead confidence for going full gas. Neil set the routes and ran the competitions whilst Mark delivered a short lecture on 'a competition mindset' for the 14 to 16 year olds.

All in all a hugely successful event kindly hosted by the Transition Extreme venue in Aberdeen.

Thanks to all who attended...

Scottish Youth Climbing Series

Fun Climbing Competitions for Beginners and seasoned climbers

For Kids aged 7yrs - 16yrs

This year’s FUN climbing competitions for young people in Scotland starts on March 5th and are being held on Saturdays at the following venues:

Round 1 (5th March):

NORTH SCOTLAND: Inverness Climbing Wall at Inverness Leisure Centre

SOUTH SCOTLAND: Stirling Peak Sports Centre

Round 2 (2nd April):

NORTH SCOTLAND: The Ice Factor at Knlochleven

SOUTH SCOTLAND: The Pleasance Sports Centre at the University of Edinburgh

Round 3 (30th April):

NORTH SCOTLAND: Transition Extreme in Aberdeen

SOUTH SCOTLAND: Glasgow Climbing Centre

You can come along to your local competition just for a bit of fun, or you can attend all 3 in your region and see how you fair against the other climbers. If you get a high score (in the top 3 in your category) you get into the Regional Team with a chance to compete at the British Final at Wolf Mountain in Wolverhamption on June 25th.

Full details are available HERE including the Rules, the Rough Guide and parents' information

Application Forms are avalable HERE

Reach Climbing Coach also offer 1:1 youth coaching for those looking to excel in their sport. Please contact reachclimbingcoach@gmail.com for availability & pricing.

Ratho Bouldering Competition.. A huge success!

2011-02-27T15:00:00.000Z

Planning Stage

More planning... & Coffee

Setting

Geek testing white mantle hell!

Route Testing

Juniors in Comp

Adults Comp

2 of Reach's coaches were route setting for the comp (Neil McGeachy & Mark McGowan). With nearly 200 competitors at Ratho's fun bouldering competition, it was heralded a true success.

results;

FULL REVISED RESULTS OF EICA: RATHO FUN BOULDERING COMPETITION

U13 Boys

1 William Bosi 195
2 = Robert Davidson 180
2 = Sam Harlend sendra 180
4 Rory Cargill 177
5 Jamie Pendan 175
6 Rory White 167
7 David Medzybrodzki 163
8 Harry stansfeild 157
9 Ruraidh Middleton 146
10 = Evan Davis 127
10 = Findlay Johnson 126
12 Euan Farmer 122
13 benFindlay 102
14 = Evan Rasmussen 89
14 = Guy Mathison 89
16 Declan Currie 87

U13 girls

1 Rebecca Kinghorn 180
2 Eilalh Vass Payne 177
3 = Emily Eadie 172
3 = Kirsten Grey 172
3 = Gabrialla Stewart 172
6 Keira Farmer 170
7 Morgan rodgers 165
8 Kirsten Taylor 164
9 Ellie Hogarth 156
10 Jodie Brown 154
11 Erili Geddes 107
12 Freya Baxter 99

13- 16 boys

1 scott Keir 200 (Winner in Finals Climb-Off)
2 Jamie Drummond 200
3 Steven Addison 197
4 Angus Davidson 186
5 Malcolm bradley 181
6 Scott donaldson 170
7 Ruaraidh Macaskill 163
8 Alex Bosi 150
9 andrew Hairsworth 93
10 Scott Govens 32

13-16 girls

1 Rachel Carr 197
2 Sophie Harper 147
3 Amy Anderson 146
4 Nikki Addison 145
5 Simla Green 139
6 Christie Macleod 107
7 Lyndsey Forsyth 106
8 Megan Saunders 79
9 Victoria Boyd 44
10 Hannah Dewar 30

Rec. Men
1 Alexei Matveyev 162
2 Gordon McKillop 161
3 John Sharples 147
4= Mike Lewis 145
4= Mitch Figures 145
6 Robbie Carruthers 140
7 David Carruthers 139
8 Grant Saunders 134
9 Colin Mcpherd 120
10 Ian Brown 108
11 Martin Wood 107

12 Lukas Solanka 99

13 Alex Scott 93

14 Mark Hammonds 83
15 Dave Brown 77
16 Tim Squires 70
17 David Wilson 55
18= Tom Jones 50
18= Sean Hiddleston 50
20 John Macleod 45
21 Paul Gowens 40

Rec.Women

1 Nicola Bishop 135
2 Gail Robertson 54
3 Avril Gall 50
4 Dawn Thomson 47
5 Kim Picozzi 45
6 Emily Raemaekers 22

Adv. Men

1 Will Atkinson 197
2 Eddie Barbour 184
3 John Brown 170
4 Andrew Simpson 162
5 Alex Gorham 160
6 Dylan Mackenzie 157
7 Kris Devlin 149
8 Mike Rudden 147
9= Ross Henighen 137
9= Merlin Floate 137
11 Paul Williamson 134

12 James McCartan 121
13 Will Carroll 102
14 David Gudmundsson 101
15= Nick O’Grady 100
16 Paul Raeside 94
17 Fraser Gibson 87
18 Donald Slatter 60

Adv. Women

1 Natalie Berry 125
2 Anna Wells 114
3 Xiao Xian Goh 93
4 Lasma Seitinsone 92
5 Eva Sparreboom 72

Vet. Men

1 Ruairidh Mackenzie 149
2 Neil Shepherd 146
3 Peter Roy 144
4 Robert Durran 137
5 Kevin Gibson 114
6 Fraser Harle 100
7Dave Hainsworth 90

8 Ed Payne 52

9 Gregor Hannappel 50

10 Sandy Carr 49

...well done ALL!

Coaching Styles & Formats we offer:

2011-02-23T00:40:00.001Z

At Reach Climbing Coach we have a proven system that substantially increases performance of ALL our clients beyond what they have experienced elsewhere with some exceptional results and referrals available on request.

1) 1 to 1 coaching at a climbing wall local to you
(1:1) £55 per hour (or £90 for 90 mins)
(1:2) £70 per hour (or £110 for 90 mins)
(1:3 or 4) £90 per hour)

2) An Online Interactive Dual Factor Training Schedule

(managed by you and designed & supported by us) - £55 for bespoke DF program followed by £25 per month / or life of training program pro-rata for on-line coaching support

3) A PDF ‘Reach Dual Factor Training Program’
for climbing designed by Mark McGowan (£55)

*Our most popular system is the initial sign up to an on-line DF Program (2), combined laterally with 1:1’s.

contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further details.

Mark McGowan & Johnny Dawes - Lectures

2011-02-17T13:27:00.001Z

Face & Dawes of Perception Outside Pete's Eats in 1985

Mark McGowan
Lecture Formats:

Eiger North Face
6a to 8a in 180 days (Climber Magazine)

Eiger

6a to 8a

Johnny Dawes

Lecture Formats:

Dynamics and The Art of Dawes
Autobiography & Book Signing (After April 2011)

Johnny at Burbage

Technical Master at Millstone

Johnny & Paul Pritchard

Coaching Ethos at Reach Climbing Coach...finding the inspiration

2011-02-11T13:05:00.005Z

Allot of people perceive our systems and coaching ethos to be pretty hard core - in jest we talk of Reach/Fight Club, but the reality of our coaching ethos is about support when your down and inspiring you when you are up pushing forward in your personal drive to improve as a climber.

We have many great training systems and programs but ultimately the 1 to 1 contact is what makes things work.

This week has been an interesting learning curve for me at Reach with a few clients feeling the pain of a plateau and others pushing into new ground with short term achievements breaking their expectations. I was one of the climbers hitting a small wall in terms of short term targets not being met, but luckily my experience of 6a to 8a taught me not to fret and that it will break if I stay the course and remain focused on the strategic goal.

Performance Targets are there to serve one purpose: to motivate ...if they are wrong, then adjust them, because otherwise they are not serving their purpose.I met about 10% of my mid training targets/milestones yet succeeded on the project.

I would never have achieved my goal of 8a in such a short period, should I not have been truly inspired to change my life. The inspiration is what drives our motivation to improve, not some fickle sense of ego. We all have ego but truly inspired climbers achieve great things and take more from their climbing experiences than those that miss the gift of being inspired...

So dig deep and look for it, because when you get a sense of it, you will know and feel better than you have before and move well across the rock like never before...

Inspiration!

Coaching at Transition Extreme in Aberdeen

2011-02-08T13:15:00.003Z

Training for Power on Neil's 70 board

We firstly stopped off at Neil's for a power session on his 70 board. Neil does 1:1/2 coaching sessions from his climbing gym near Arbroath and has been coaching for over 10 years at the highest level. His new set up is awesome and the gym is expanding fast! - contact Reachclimbingcoach@gmail.com for details of availability and price for Neil's advanced rock gym sessions.

Morning run along the sea cliffs near Arbroath

http://www.transition-extreme.com/climb.htm

In Aberdeen, we were coaching with The Granite Rock Team at Transition Extreme climbing and bouldering center. Where we had 5 sessions of youths ranging from 6 to 15 years. Great sessions all round fininshed off with a quick route set for the older boys to have a pop at some power slaps on the yellow V5 slopers of doom!

Yellow v5

Scott on sighting 7a+

Scott on 7b

Malcolm on 7a+

A trip back west to Kinloch Leven's Ice Factor on the way home saw for a nice bit of plyometrics on a wet day as well as meeting up with Kev Shields for a quick chat and seeing him tackling the steepest wall in the center... a truly inspiring individual...

Ice Factor

Kev topping out on the steep wall

Glen Coe TRAD with Mark McGowan

2011-02-03T00:54:00.005Z

We are taking bookings for day trips on the TRAD classics of Glen Coe with Mark McGowan in June 2011 for the following routes:

For cost and availability please contact Reachclimbingcoach@gmail.com

* A choice of alternate leads or seconding for the experience are both available based on previous experience.

Red Point Tactics

2011-02-01T20:18:00.007Z

Took Phil through the Reach strategy for increasing red point performance via our method... Great day with tons of progress and much happiness.

First rule of Reach Club...We do NOT talk about Reach club!...

Phil psyched for a burn on Hamish Tedd's 7b+

Ratho EICA Bouldering competition on Feb 19th

2011-01-25T21:08:00.001Z

Reach Climbing Coach is sponsoring the event with a 1:1 coaching session from Mark McGowan at the EICA

Moon Climbing coming soon to Reach Climbing Coach

2011-01-21T20:59:00.002Z

Reach has just completed an agreement as an authorised On-line Dealer. We will be launching our on line store in a few weeks as preparations are under way as we speak.

We will be mainly focusing on hardware products initially and we are completely stoked to be a partner with such a great core brand with solid roots in hard climbing.

BMC Leading Ladder - Route set at EICA - Ratho

2011-01-15T11:51:00.000Z

Ratho Routes are now set on the Competition wall for the BMC Leader Ladder as Follows:

Black 6b

Orange 6a+

Green 6b

White 6b+

Pink 6c+

Green 7a

Pink 7b

Black 7c

Green 8a

Setter's
Gary Vincent,
Neil Busby,
Neil McGeachy,
Mark McGowan

Geek route testing 7a

Calum Forsyth

2011-01-13T22:19:00.000Z

My name is Calum Forsyth. I work and climb at the Edinburgh international climbing arena (Eica) in Ratho, just outside Edinburgh.

I have been climbing for about 8 years now and have done many competitions, these have been mainly regional and national, including the Youth Climbing Series and British team trials.

I have now competed in three team trials, in the previous two I have finished in 6th place and 8th place. the most recent team trials I entered was on the 27th November 2010, at Awesome Walls Climbing Centre, Liverpool,. This was my second trip to this wall.

Earlier this year i suffered an injury to the growth plate in one of my fingers in my right hand, at the time i was gutted, i was climbing well and all i wanted to do was continue, but, i soon realised it wasn't doing any good and i had to think of the long term effect it would have had if i continued to climb whilst not 100%. i set myself a goal of returning to climbing and aiming for the Team trials. I knew I had 6 months to get strong and fit again but I knew it wouldn't be easy and I was right!

I was so determined to do well in the team trials, i gradually built up my training programme, I trained 4 times a week with Gary Vincent (Gaz) and the master as we know him, Neill Busby (Buzz). Throughout the six months I found it really hard to stay focussed but with two really great guys spurring me on it was easy to stay motivated and best of all psyched. As the comp grew nearer my training decreased to easy climbing so not to get tired and injured. I kind off struggled with that one, i wondered why the climbing was getting easier, it didn't seem right but Gaz and Buzz convinced me it was the best way.

On the Friday the day before the comp my parents and I travelled down to the hotel we were going to be staying at. After a 4 hour journey we arrived in Liverpool we met up with a few other people who made the long travel south such as Nikki and Steven Addison (coming from Inverness 7hrs!!!!) , Olivia and Gabriella Stewart, Megan Sanders, William and Alexander Bosi,and Rachel Carr who all climb at Ratho on a regular basis.

The morning of the competition was obviously a nervous one as I didn't have aclue what to expect, the comp routine probably always the same but for some reason it never seems to workout that way! So after breakfast we headed off to the wall for registration. At the wall we were met by Rob Adie and were told what to do, sign in, collect our competition number and our t-shirts (yellow!). The it was straight off to see what climbs I would be doing.

The first route was around 18 meters high on the side wall which started off with two massive orange holds and suddenly it went into the most crimpy route I had seen in a long time and that's when the nerves got worse, bit i convinced myself as it was not very steep climbing and I was the fifth person to climb it. On the other hand I looked at my second route and it looked like it was set by the master busby as it was on the steep wave at the back of the wall it was a very awkward looking sequence but as to most of busby routes there is a hard way and an easy way the hard part was finding the easy way of doing it.

And I had no idea of what number I would be climbing as it was still yet to be decided on in the first route.

When it came to the first person climbing the orange I was watching closely to see how he made the moves and when he fell of I was worried about the grade of climb and then didn't focus on the other three climbers before me as I was so nervous so I went to warm up for 20 mins just trying to stay warm and not get pumped then it was my shot at the climb which had already spat of four other people so I was worried about getting started but after the first few moves I was back to my usual self blanking everything out and whistling to the music in the background as I do to focus my self there was one part of the route everyone kept falling of and I was thinking to my self I no I can't fall of if I won't a good score so I decided to not clip and get to the next good hold before reaching down and clipping and it worked for me so I fought on to the top. I was so surprised that I had completed those route now on to the next climb.

All I had to do now wad wait and see how the other 16 competitors got on before seeing were I would place on the next route. After the results were posted I was only one of. Eight climbers to do this route and would there for climb on the yell one eighth as I was first to top out.

The second qualifier was an awkward looking route which was set by Neill Busby who also works and climbs at ratho. It was on the steep wave wall at the back of the church it started on the corner side of the wave on quite large holds but most of the route was on rubbish holds with a lot of awkward foot placements that were key to doing it. As it came to my climb I stepped up and didn't look at the route before jumping onto it as I just wanted to climb and of I went on this crazy looking climb that was technical from the off the first crux in this route was about five clips up were you had to traverse across this steep wall into a corner and clip then I realised that I was able to double clip which meant less hanging about on small holds trying to clip. After snacking out for a we bit I then had to make my way across to this big heel hook to balance my self out and pull up for the next hold so after all of that I was totally pumped and was determined to stay on the wall so I fought on until the second last hold before falling off.

Despite not topping out, I was extremely happy with my efforts on this route and I think Buz was as well, he congratulated me on my effort and asked what I thought of the route I replied "it was rubbish!!!! (i told him i was only joking and it was in fact a really cool climb)

So all I had to do now was wait and see were I would finish or if I would make it to the final. Once everybody had tried route 2 it was time for us to wait around 20 mins to see who made the finial. When the results were posted, there were 10 people going through and sadly the other 9 didn't quite make it. To my surprise I made the finial in 7th place and was so psyched. Once every competitor had finished we were told we had to be in isolation for 1400hrs, if we were late we wouldn't be allowed to compete. This gave me 30 mins to get all my kit and food together before going down into the bouldering cave which was used as isolation.

At 1400hrs we were told that viewing for our route would be at 1430hrs as this 30 mins gave the route setters times to change the routes a little bit. After viewing we were sent back down into isolation and told the running orders of the categories and low and behold my category was out last which gave use 3hrs in total doing nothing apart from trying to find ways to stay occupied. I think isolation should become an Olympic Sport in its own right because its sooooooooo hard!!!!

As I listened to everyones name being called out I was bored beyond belief but I also knew it was getting closer to my turn to climb. Most of all I just wanted to go out and climb (i'm not the best person to keep locked in a room for 3 hrs) I spent most of my time making up stupid boulder challenges with the other competitors who shared my pain.

After 3hrs it was my turn to take to the stage on a very hard and incredibly awkward route set by none other than Tom Randell. I had climbed a number of Toms routes at the BLCC's so I knew it would have a lot of heel and toe hooks in it and low an behold there was! I started this climb as any other, I walked straight out and did what needed to be done which was climb. I climbed the first few moves with a few mishaps but held in there as long as i physically could before making such a bad error by wrong handing myself. i was disappointed because it was a stupid mistake and not a technical or physical error it was my own stupid mistake. I wasn't going to get worked up about it as I made the finial which was already my biggest achievement of the day.

After watching the other people climbing the scores were in and calculated. After the scores were posted it was quite a surprise on how closely packed the category was. As the results were posted I was named in 9th position which I thought was very respectable given the time scale I had to train for but I couldn't have had a better time competing. It was also great to meet up with people again, funny sport this climbing thing, meet and greet lots of fab people.

The Johnny Dawes Project

2011-01-09T00:02:00.000Z

Johnny and I met for the first time since 1987 yesterday, which is a long time I suppose as I was 19 and he 22: Young guys wanting to be the best we could be.

He, like me has been training hard again and some great training days have been had down here in sunny Worcester.

John's passion for climbing at the limit is still truly alight and some exciting new climbing projects are afoot...which is nice.

Its great to train with someone who has the same passion for climbing and getting the best from your body and translating it to moving better over the rock.

The Peak next for a Day on the Grit with Dawes...

http://www.johnnydawes.co.uk/

Route Setting on Ratho Boulders today with the BUZZ... To infinity & beyond...

2011-01-04T20:06:00.000Z

Ratho Boulder Field

Yellow v5 - a bit slappy!

Fraser on Yellow v5

Yellow v5 - a bit slappy! but ooooooooh nice...
Green v5 - a bit slopey! with fingery undercut that hates you!
Grey v2 - a bit ropey!

Enjoy........

Outdoor Bouldering Days V0 to V6

2011-01-03T19:47:00.000Z

Bouldering at Kyloe In The Woods

We are running day trips to various quality locations within a 150 mile radios of Glasgow (on land!) and offer climbers the opportunity to transfer their well earned indoor skills out onto the blocs at a variety of great locations for day drips with coaching included or excluded if required.

Our initial trips are:

Bowden Doors - V0 to V6
Kyloe in the Woods - V3 to V6

Great days out with fun guaranteed!

View Bouldering in a larger map

Kyloe In The Woods from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Bowden

For costs and availability, please contact reachclimbingcoach@gmail.com or markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further information.

Reach Climbing Coach

Why ReAch?...Malta

REAL-ROCK TRAD TRIP

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coach: Fontainebleau Bouldering October 15th – 19th 2012

Report on MCofS Coaching Induction

Chaining 8b : the training journey so far...

Stevie Haston Joins ReAch Climbing Coach!

Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak: Putting the right people around you...

For Poland ...Trening dla maksymalnej sily palcow.(Maximal Finger Strength.)

La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada by Haroun Souirji

The 'Mind' of a project...

Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ...

Inspiration...

Training with the psyched female climber...

FULL OF MYSELF... Johnny Dawes book Launch

FULL OF MYSELF

£25

British Lead Climbing Championships 2011

Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training

Lead and Speed Climbing Coaching Sessions for Kids at EICA: Ratho

Scottish Youth Event Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching PrepDate: 1st October 2011Venue: EICA: Ratho

Johnny Dawes’ Essentials of Elegant Motion

Inspiration... My friend Paul Pritchard - Trikes on the Roof of the World

Amanda Did it ...'Dinnet Do It' (7c)

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011

SYCC 2011

Sport Climbing: Fall Training or Risk, Value & Commitment?

Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

Únete a nuestro único doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 al mes

Flashing 8a at 18 - Ross Kirkland Interview

Spanish Stone ...

Reach Member Achieves target of getting from 7b+ Redpoint to 8a in 15 weeks using Reach Dual Factor Program

Gary Vincent joins Reach Climbing Coach

COACHING HERE IN SIURANA

Coaching the 3 Amigos at Siurana

Reach Expands into Spain

Finding the flow in climbing...Spain.

Using 'systems' to increase bouldering standard

Educating your body to climb harder and pushing through a plateau...

Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe repeated by Nigel Callender...

MCofS Youth Climbing Series - Competition Preparation Coaching at Transition Extreme

Ratho Bouldering Competition.. A huge success!

Coaching Styles & Formats we offer:

At Reach Climbing Coach we have a proven system that substantially increases performance of ALL our clients beyond what they have experienced elsewhere with some exceptional results and referrals available on request.

1) 1 to 1 coaching at a climbing wall local to you

Mark McGowan & Johnny Dawes - Lectures

Coaching Ethos at Reach Climbing Coach...finding the inspiration

Coaching at Transition Extreme in Aberdeen

Glen Coe TRAD with Mark McGowan

Red Point Tactics

Ratho EICA Bouldering competition on Feb 19th

Moon Climbing coming soon to Reach Climbing Coach

BMC Leading Ladder - Route set at EICA - Ratho

Calum Forsyth

The Johnny Dawes Project

Route Setting on Ratho Boulders today with the BUZZ... To infinity & beyond...

Outdoor Bouldering Days V0 to V6

Scottish Youth Event
Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching Prep
Date: 1st October 2011
Venue: EICA: Ratho