A Dream of White Horses... "Just so you know!"

Venga Animal

Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto

El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.

Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.

Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.

ReAch Training Program starting soon...

We are looking to recruit 10 members for our online training program based around 3 blocks of 6 week training periods beginning soon.

The program will focus on a periodized peak for an Autumn sport climbing project. The plan will be to run 3 separate 6 week training blocks based around MAXIMAL STRENGTH to POWER to POWER ENDURANCE.

If you are interested in joining the team then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com before the end of  July to allow us to design your interactive online program.

Each 6 week block is priced at £75 and 1:1 training sessions at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales are also available at £50 for 90 minute training session. The focus of the 1:1 will be to guide you through the training processes and motivate to maximize the session.

If you climb between 6a to 7c and are looking to work for a marked improvement then email Mark McGowan to begin.

Malcolm on Blood Diamond (8c+) Anvil, Scotland (Video Still,)

Bouldering in Ariege 

 Gozo Island (Video Still,)

Systems Training

Recovery Part 2...

Stepped Recovery...

Since returning back to the UK from Spain/France in December and moving back to Wales in January, I have been just ticking over really and concentrating on more personal well being than driving any training objectives. With the addition of the new Routing Roof it seems some new psyche has been sparked to train more consistently. Getting back to full fitness usually takes about 3 cycles of 6 week training blocks, so that takes me to around October, which is cool... Literally...cooler!

Integrating sports massage into my training is part of my plan to try and avoid injury and speed recovery...

"Combining sport massage as part of your training can significantly reduce the risks of overuse injuries and also aids recovery by reducing muscle fatigue. For climbers really looking to optimize performance, resting for appropriate lengths of time between climbing sessions and body conditioning, are incredibly important (and often overlooked) aspects of any training schedule.  If you are already suffering from muscle fatigue or specific climbing related injuries such as sore shoulders, sports massage is an incredibly effective method of relieving fatigue and injuries, allowing you to achieve a high level of performance". 

Massaging forearm flexors (Photo C. Molloy)

Professional, effective sports and remedial massage for relief from stress and tension, muscle and joint pain, injury rehabilitation and prevention, improved flexibility and recovery.

Consultation and treatment £40
Clinic at the Beacon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, and appointments available at other times.
Call Cordelia on 07951 448 669 to book an appointment

Roof routes.... Getting Grotty at The Beacon!

Beacon Climbing Walls new 'routing roof'

Awaiting the completion of the new plastic training cave in Wales, which is nearly finished, is like waiting on Santa! In a few days it will be complete with 15m of upside downess, a lick of paint and some bat cave route setting to follow... hopefully without the bat shit. Can't wait!

 (Videos by Craig Smith)

Systems Training

System set at the Beacon Climbing Centre, Wales

 Began training again using a system that I used to try and maximise my time when I had 6 weeks to get as much Power Endurance as I could for the BLCC's a year ago. It consists of building maximal strength for the fingers using borderline grip types with little distance between them to maximise the focus on the finger loading and contact strength before the natural progression towards PE is achieved by default. Finishes with campus sets on jugs once the fingers are drained to build more power across the back and shoulder girdle... Takes an hour.

1st session today at the Beacon Climbing Centre where I trained for an hour on the system then nearly fell off every easy route I tried after just an hour on the system. So it works ... For me!

Owen Jones trying out my system

If you are interested in 1:1 training sessions for increased Power Endurance sessions with Mark at the Beacon Climbing Centre , then contact him on markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details.

Set some routes at the Beacon... it was good!

The Beacon

... It was good!

Bouldering in Ogwen, North Wales... It was good!

... It was good!

Welsh Rock Trad Program with 1:1 Coaching in North Wales: Welsh Classics from VS to E5

Welsh Rock

After 25 years away from Welsh Trad, it was great to get back into things with a gentle introduction with friends at Holyhead Mountain on a lovely sunny Welsh day along the coast of Gogarth. In 1985 as a young 16 year old, I climbed amazing classics around the Snowdonia National Park such as the Right and Left Walls of the Cromlech (E5 & E3), The classic headwall crackline of Cream on Tremadog (E4), Dream of White Horses HVS on Gogarth and Comes the Dervish E3 on slate all in the same week... I was so inspired by these climbs that I moved to Wales that year.

Cordelia Molloy at Holyhead Mountain, North Wales

Ben Ram on Holyhead Mountain, North Wales

Cordelia Molloy at Holyhead Mountain, North Wales

I'm back having done some 'stuff ' in the last 25 years and have decided to relearn these classics and coach and design a program that finishes with ascents of the Welsh Trad Classics:

The Program will consist of:

• 6 week training/conditioning online program (£75)
• Option of 3 seperate days of 1:1  Trad coaching at location of choice (can be split over weeks if required) (£125 per day)
• 3 week training program designed around climb of choice (£50)
• 1 days coaching on objective Trad route of choice (£150)

If you would like further information on the Welsh Rock Trad Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

 

 

Over excited on Welsh Trad after 25 years away!

3rd Ascent of For Whom The Bell Tolls E6 (1985)

The Chimp & I (age 17) outside Pete's Eats 1985.

2nd Ascent of Art Groupie E6, North Stack Wall (1988)

Recovery... Part 1.

 Been training at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales, where I am beginning the path back to fitness again after a few months recovery in Scotland after returning from the Pyrenees. It seems to take a few visits to relax properly at a new training venue and begin to get the best from oneself on lead. Each week brings small progressive steps towards last years fitness. First session began with a 6c fail on the last move, 2nd then progressed to a 7a, then a 7a in approach shoes a few sessions later and now I am completely hooked on working sessions on a great 7c+ to try and get into a power endurance environment again.

Applying the tactics I learned last year where one concentrates on the volume/number of working sessions on a route above your standard as the training objective to build some power endurance. I am not yet 7c+ fit but have got up to 3 goes on the route on the last sessions, so aiming for 4 will by default lift my PE and later, an accidental red point! Then move maximal finger strength up a notch then change to a harder environment again.

Climbing on lead feels different this year with less angst and much more relaxed approach focusing on each move with less noise or ambition getting in the way of what I feel will be my most enjoyable years climbing... ever!

Ben on the 7a at The Beacon Climbing Centre

Ive been coaching a friend Ben on a  great 7a at the Beacon and I reckon we will chain it soon. It's great to see someone stretch themselves, but also I am learning from Ben about keeping a high level of fun in  climbing as the overriding factor which is reflecting back into my climbing.

Last year I concentrated on increasing flexibility and core and this year I am hoping to focus and change my psychological approach to my climbing and also introduce sports massage support for more effective recovery to maximise each session for a great summer in North Wales. More on that next...