Thursday, 3 October 2013

Jo Lucas ... 6c to 7c


Jo sending Silk Teddies (7c)

I began coaching Jo in August 2011 at Ratho in Edinburgh, then a board session, then onto the full program for two long seasons. We have climbed and trained together in the UK, Spain and the French Pyrenees and it was great to hear of her recent news of red pointing two 7c's within a few weeks of each other. Although her previous career was modelling in Tokyo, her ability to train daily and change her body for climbing has been mind blowing.

Jo working an 8a in French Pyrenees
I have never met anyone with such a positive outlook on her life and Jo has always inspired me to try and get the best from my life. A coaching relationship is a two way thing and Jo has supported me in my times of personal difficulty with her unrelenting openness and friendship. Well done Jo, well deserved after 2 years HARD training. And well done to your 'Spaniard' for putting up with it!

Alex 
Jo and Amanda at Dunkeld, Scotland

... 8a next year? No PRESSURE!...


To join up with ReAch Online Dual Factor Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for information. English and Spanish Programs available...


Saturday, 21 September 2013

Recruiting for ReAch Online Dual Factor Program beginning October

Mark McGowan on FA on Gozo Island
We are recruiting 5 new clients for our October Team for our 6 week Online Dual Factor Program (English or Spanish speaking). Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange for details. the cost of the program is £100 or 100euros payable via paypal

If you climb between 6a and 7c outdoors and looking to train harder for better results in your sport climbing the get in touch.

Youth Coaching in Siurana, Spain

Estamos reclutando 5 nuevos clientes para nuestro Equipo de octubre para nuestro programa de Factor dual de en línea 6 semanas (de habla Inglés o español). Por favor, póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com para concertar obtener más información. El costo del programa es de £ 100 o € 100 por pagar a través de PayPal

Si escalando al aire libre entre 6a y 7c y buscan entrenar más duro para obtener mejores resultados en tu deporte de escalada y luego ponerse en contacto.

Saturday, 31 August 2013

New Indy Climbing Wall now open today... Where Barcelona meets North Wales!

From this...




To this...






The guys and girls at the Indy have managed a great turnaround with their transformation of their climbing center on Anglesey in North Wales with a new and very steep Power Endurance lead wall that reminded me of a training facility just outside Barcelona that I visited (a very contemporary design!)

The new Power Endurance Wall

Rob setting on the new PE wall


It was great to be involved in both the wall manufacturing (supplied from Beacon Climbing Walls) and finally route setting with the Indy Team.




Emma setting the Circuits Board
 The Indy is open right now and I believe a party will ensue... As I look out the window towards Holyhead I can see it's cloudy, so maybe get down there and enjoy the plastic fantastic from the Indy...


A Stella Job!

Friday, 30 August 2013

Route Setting in the UK



The New Indy Wall in North Wales



Mark McGowan is available for route setting in the UK


Route setting Experience:

  • Ratho International Climbing Centre for Bouldering competitions and Scottish Youth Series
  • Inverness Climbing Centre for Scottish Youth Series
  • The Beacon Climbing Centre for lead routes and Welsh Youth Series
  • The Indy Climbing Wall for lead routes




Rate is £12 per hour plus agreed travel costs

Based in North Wales

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto

El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.



Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.



Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.

Saturday, 22 June 2013

ReAch Training Program starting soon...

We are looking to recruit 10 members for our online training program based around 3 blocks of 6 week training periods beginning soon.

The program will focus on a periodized peak for an Autumn sport climbing project. The plan will be to run 3 separate 6 week training blocks based around MAXIMAL STRENGTH to POWER to POWER ENDURANCE.


If you are interested in joining the team then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com before the end of  July to allow us to design your interactive online program.

Each 6 week block is priced at £75 and 1:1 training sessions at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales are also available at £50 for 90 minute training session. The focus of the 1:1 will be to guide you through the training processes and motivate to maximize the session.

If you climb between 6a to 7c and are looking to work for a marked improvement then email Mark McGowan to begin.



Malcolm on Blood Diamond (8c+) Anvil, Scotland (Video Still,)

Bouldering in Ariege 



 Gozo Island (Video Still,)

Systems Training

Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Recovery Part 2...


Stepped Recovery...

Since returning back to the UK from Spain/France in December and moving back to Wales in January, I have been just ticking over really and concentrating on more personal well being than driving any training objectives. With the addition of the new Routing Roof it seems some new psyche has been sparked to train more consistently. Getting back to full fitness usually takes about 3 cycles of 6 week training blocks, so that takes me to around October, which is cool... Literally...cooler!

Integrating sports massage into my training is part of my plan to try and avoid injury and speed recovery...


"Combining sport massage as part of your training can significantly reduce the risks of overuse injuries and also aids recovery by reducing muscle fatigue. For climbers really looking to optimize performance, resting for appropriate lengths of time between climbing sessions and body conditioning, are incredibly important (and often overlooked) aspects of any training schedule.  If you are already suffering from muscle fatigue or specific climbing related injuries such as sore shoulders, sports massage is an incredibly effective method of relieving fatigue and injuries, allowing you to achieve a high level of performance". 



Massaging forearm flexors (Photo C. Molloy)

Professional, effective sports and remedial massage for relief from stress and tension, muscle and joint pain, injury rehabilitation and prevention, improved flexibility and recovery.

Consultation and treatment £40
Clinic at the Beacon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, and appointments available at other times.
Call Cordelia on 07951 448 669 to book an appointment




Saturday, 15 June 2013

Roof routes.... Getting Grotty at The Beacon!



Beacon Climbing Walls new 'routing roof'

Awaiting the completion of the new plastic training cave in Wales, which is nearly finished, is like waiting on Santa! In a few days it will be complete with 15m of upside downess, a lick of paint and some bat cave route setting to follow... hopefully without the bat shit. Can't wait!

 (Videos by Craig Smith)






Referrals from clients:



"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)


" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)