Learning to be a coach...

What I have learned in the last 9 months about finding out how to coach climbing better has surprised me. Because, learning about yourself and how you cope or fail to cope in climbing situations is important because until you know about yourself then you can't truly coach others well.

I started the 1st month with a knee operation so I could continue to run in the hills in December. I then drove 2000km to Spain with post op stiffness in the knee at christmas. I lived in my car through the winter month of Jan while working in Scotland on the ropes then drove to Ariege for Feb. Stayed off my elbows and ran in the snow around Foix to let them recover and strengthen my knee a little... 

Bolting on Gozo

Bolted routes on Gozo then coached the kids in Siurana in April, then took a holiday with the a friend across the Pyrenees to the surf in May. Started in the Grotte de Sabart in June and messed up July under pressure.

Learning about your self takes commitment and time and this is what coaching is about for me. Passing on what you know without ego to help others find the better in themselves.

Grotte de Sabart (Photo: Craig Smith)

So here is to climbing in the Ariege, here is to the ReAch September Team and here is to enchaining your own '8b'! ...mine is an epic..

Working Reine de Sabart (8b) - Photos: Sam Smith

Working Reine de Sabart (8b) - Photos: Sam Smith

Working Reine de Sabart (8b) - Photos: Sam Smith

Dual Factor Online Training Program - September Start

We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Dual Factor Training Program begining the month September to December.

Photo: Jon Stoelker

We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by around 2/3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for more details...

Bouldering at Targasonne, Pyrenees
Photo: Ruth Jenkins

ALL PLACES FILLED FOR SEPTEMBER TEAM... 

Finger StrengthTraining System by Eva Lopez now available in UK

The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez and JM Climbing of Barcelona has finally made it onto British soil. It is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)

ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and have brought this innovative training board and methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.

ReAch Coach: Ruth Jenkins

For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at  verticalventures@talktalk.net or contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).

Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers...

Stretching - warm up

setting some bloc moves for PE circuits

Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege
(Photo: Ian Storey)

After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart, the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).

Jon Stoelker  of Base Calames sending a 7b at Genat

Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart.  I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...

Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own  PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.

My PE for the fingers is this:

• Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until they yield. 
• Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets, 
• Then weight vest circuits... Then start again!

Going for double figures...The big 10!

...a short diary entry on the last day by Mark McGowan ...

Over the Pyrenees down into Spain 

The route from Pyrenees to Siurana

When I arrived from over the Pyrenees at my annual Siurana ReAch Coaching Week I wasn't really perpared for how the week would end.


My team of Ninjas was Ben, Louis and Jamie, all from different parts of Scotland (Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Oban) and all of differing ages from 9 upwards.


The coaching began with the usual process of getting the kids to relax and get used to me and each other whilst the parents watched in trepidation making sure their little ones were in 'good' (or at worst 'safe' hands!).


Eventually climbing standards, individual charactoristics and strengths and weaknesses began to emerge. Eventually some scope for coaching emerged and eventually an increase in personal bests and celebrations of successes began to emerge with goals being met and surpassed by some.

Mandy and son Jamie

Louis and Jamie enjoying their leading...

Competition climber & Coach: Jonathan Stocking putting up ropes for the kids

The Ben & Mark show!

But today Saturday (sabado) our final day will be renamed to 'Louis-day' after our team ninja Loui from Edinburgh who's selfless, quiet persistence saw him find the confidence to climb better and bring smiles to his mates the other ninjas who's week had already been made by their worthy attack on their big 7a.


Young Jamie from Oban has showed great inteligence in his climbing and this is reflected through his ability to read the moves quickly and climb at a pace that impressed me and the other Ninjas.


However, young Ben from Aberdeen (aged 9) really impressed me with his unwavering determinationation to keep trying and each time his father (Gus) and I suggested he might need to consider coming down, he just downright refused to give up.

An absolute inspiration to me and when I asked Ben what age he was, he told me:  " I am only 9.., but I am shooting for double figures soon.., soon I will be 10.., the BIG time!"

"Going for double figures...The BIG 10!"

Eva Lopez Finger Boards & JM Climbing holds coming to UK market

Whilst based in the Spanish and French border of the Pyrenees, our ReAch coach Mark McGowan has also been working in his capacity as a consultant with the innovative manufacturer of Eva Lopez new Finger board systems: Progression & Transgression which is produced by JM Climbing in Barcelona. The combination of the Eva Lopez 6 year PHD study and JMClimbing's manufacturing experience have produced a training system and finger board concept that is so innovative and so  has been produced under copyright.

Mark is combining his own vision of colaborating ReAch Climbing Coach with a hold manufactrer to take bespoke climbing coaching to a new level and JM Climbing have what it takes...

"As well as having Eva Lopez on as a researcher and consultant to their company, JM Climbing have developed the highest quality of training holds that I have seen, where the core material is less succeptable to humidity : This is key in a training environment where it is a huge problem for skin which in turn produces an un-neccessary compromise to a training session. 

My vision for ReAch Climbing Coach goes far beyond what people are experiencing today in the UK in a climbing coached environment and it is great that they are coming over to the UK and I am delighted to help that process."  

Mark McGowan in Island of Gozo

JM Climbing have a whole range of innovative climbing products and are currently looking for UK sales agents to partner with for May 2012 onwards. If you are in the trade with a proven client relationship with major UK specialist retailers then please contact in the first instance Mark at markmcgowan01@gmail.com

Having your period!

FA Super Furry Animals on Gozo Island

Periodization or working to a 'peak' is something that most climbers
who maybe aren't progressing as well as they would like, tend not to
engage properly in.

Its a strategic approach and therefore tactics and results aren't
always obvious nor instant.

It is not really about the chosen moment or exact timing of the 'peak'
that makes the big difference in performance. It's obviously the
training that has gone before and wither one has sacraficed weekly,
monthly or quarterly performance for the sake of THE chosen peak
period.

Training over the top of everything (even other training - Dual Factor
Theory) is a tough environment to stay in for a substantial time. 1
month/ 30 days, 3 months/90 days, 6 months/180 days.
Every day some part of your body is being worked while other parts are
in pain recovering. Its hard and that's why few really do it.

Training in a periodized environment is just training in a focused way
that maximises the time , to get the biggest benefits from the
application of processes that are in a particular order culminating in
a volume taper against an increase in intensity and finally a peak.
Eg for me the order is:
1. Strength training
2. Power
3. Power Endurance

But it's this stuff which I think builds the improvement through focus
and consistancy and develops increased performance.
Others may mix and intertwine their strength with power with PE but I
mostly prefer to isolate.

Rest and recovery is obviously a key part of a strategic training
environment and is one of the hardest parts to manage due to the urge
to keep training instead of recovering to a physical peak state...

REAL-ROCK TRAD TRIP

Scotland North-West:

We will spend a week climbing sea cliffs in the north-west which may include Reiff, Rhue,Sheigra .
Mountain scrambles or multi -pitch climbs at Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor,or Cul Beag
Bouldering at Rhue, Ardmair, Reiff
the list is endless!

This course will run from mon 2nd of July until fri 6th of July.
Four days climbing ,coaching and instruction .
One day rest/bad weather day.

Photo: James Dunn

COURSE DISCRIPTION

This course will mainly focus on traditional climbing.
Gear placements
Building belays
Leading and seconding trad routes.
Manageing risk.
Onsight tactics.
Technique on rock
Route reading
Long term development pathway.
Abseiling
with additional options for scrambling, multi-pitch,bouldering,gorge walking and hill-walking.

This course will be delievered by Pamela Millar who is a Mountain Instructor ,loves climbing big remote mountain routes or multi-pitch sea cliff climbing.During the winter Pamela spends her time climbing Scottish mix and ice climbing .
Neil McGeachy - National team coach & passionate Scottish Trad Climber will be on hand to offer tip and techniques on performance on the sharp end.

9AM TILL 5PM EACH DAY .
Spaces for 8 kids (with a parent/gardian)
Price  :    £150 per child

Ratio 1:4

Equipment required.... harness, rock shoes, chalk, helmet, waterproofs(jacket +trousers), walking boots or shoes,warm clothes ,sun tan lotion, midge repellent.

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coach: Fontainebleau Bouldering October 15th – 19th 2012

Cost £150

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coaching are arranging a youth coaching event in Fontainebleau, one of the worlds most popular bouldering destinations. This will be from October 15^th-19^th (during the Scottish School Holiday) and is being organised and delivered by Neill Busby, Mark McGowan and Gaz Vincent.

The Fontainebleau bouldering meet is being supported by the MCofS by providing elite coaches for the 4 days of coaching during the 5 day event. The cost to cover coaching is £150 per child - £37.50/day.

Aims: 

Our aim is to introduce participants to the best bouldering that Fontainebleau has to offer. Each day our coaches will run workshops on various techniques and tactics needed to climb on the famous sandstone boulders. Our other aim is to provide coaching and advice to parents to encourage more independence to get outside more. We expect all the adults / parents to take an active role in the event, coaches will help parents understand etiquette and safety issues at crags where their children will be climbing.

Parent / Coach Responsibility:

Whilst on the meet, the coaches are responsible for the safety of the kids (and you!) when being coached at the crag (or its approach). At all other times you are responsible for your own and your child’s safety and wellbeing, as well as their behaviour.

Booking Your Place:

If you are interested please send the attached application form to MCofS either via email (to: admin@mcofs.org.uk) or by post, to book your place. Can you please indicate your method of payment.

Once we have the minimum numbers required to make the event viable we shall notify you and confirm the meet will go ahead you will be able to book flights and accommodation.

Consent:

Please fill in the attached Consent Form and return by email to me. If you have already completed and sent in a MCofS Consent Form there is no need to complete another one, but please indicate on the application form any changes that might be required.

Please note:

• Applications must be sent back only to MCS either by email to admin@mcofs.org.uk, or by post.
• Payment for the coaching can be made by phone, PayPal or cheque to MCofS.
• Confirmation will be returned by email (or post) by Jane at MCS office.
• A Parent (and their child attending the event) must sign a MCofS consent form (please simply insert you names when replying by email and date it). A parent must take responsibility for the child(s) behaviour at all times when not climbing. The coaches are responsible for the child whilst being coached.
• If someone else is taking responsibility for your child at the event they must be indicated on the form.
• Climbers need to bring their own personal climbing equipment (rock shoes, chalk bag, harness, belay plate, rope and helmet).
• General information is contained in the attached Parental Information document.
• Finally, I draw your attention to the MCofS Code of Conduct expected at our events.

Resources:

• Events Protocol
• Coaching Events Consent Form

Report on MCofS Coaching Induction

Sunday the 4th March saw Scottish coaches descend on Perth High School for the first MCofS Coaches Gathering & Induction.  The event was attended by coaches, who are active within the varied Scottish Youth Development scene, as well as Area Youth Coordinators.  The ethos of this event was to provide an opportunity for professionals to come together and share ideas, observe coaching techniques & discuss up and coming initiatives the MCofS aim to deliver over the coming months.  The gathering also served as an opportunity to introduce the current 3 tier MCofS Youth Coaching Structure [Aspirant Coach, Assistant Coach & Full Coach], outlining the job descriptions of each post & explaining the pathways [i.e. shadowing & training] in place to progress through the structure.  

The day kicked off with talks from;

• Tony McClelland [Head of Outdoor Education - Perth High School].  Discussing the story of climbing within the school set up.  Explaining how the came about obtaining such a great climbing facility & how this has grown in to one of the most successful regional climbing development initiatives in Scotland.
• Neil McGeachy [ReAch Coaching & MCofS Scottish Team Coach].  Discussing the roles of MCofS, its coaches & setters in the development of Scottish Team members.  Also discussing the MCofS Youth Development Ethos of promoting increased pathways in to the outdoors for climbers of all levels and ages.  Aiming to promote varied and active life long futures within the sport for our country's young climbers.
• Neill Busby [MCofS British Team Representative].  Discussing how MCofS works to help nurture & support our country's elite young climbers.  He talked about coaching support, previous & current success stories & future ambitions.

These talks provided a great over view of how healthy all levels of youth development within Scottish climbing are.  They also illustrated how well these levels serve in supporting each other and provide clear logical support pathways in the climbing journey;  

• Numbers are up in all Scottish competitions, 
• Regional youth clubs and performance squads are popping up all over the place, 
• The school climbing competitions scene is growing massively and beginning to feed the Youth Climbing Series
• Outdoor Real Rock Initiatives are being better attended than ever
• We have enjoyed an 8 year period of producing many of the UK's most successful International competitors.  Currently holding 9 slots on the British Junior Climbing Squad.

This continued growth and development means more than ever we need a diverse and extensive pool of MCofS performance coaches to draw from & also require a strategy in place to begin the process of bringing through future coaches & making the whole set up more sustainable long term.  This Gathering & Induction was the beginning of this process.

After the talks the coaches were given time to study the hand outs provided on 'Training guidelines for YCS Finalists'.  These documents offered info on MCofS & ReAch's stance on appropriate training & injury avoidance when coaching young performance climbers.  The day then progressed to a series of short coaching workshops delivered by a selection of assistant coaches & full coaches on the MCofS coaching program.

Coaching Workshops Delivered;

Pamela Miller - Coaching route reading & sequence memory 

Neill Busby - Balance & body positioning on steep ground

Ian Sneddon - Variety of uses of Add on in coaching

Natalie Berry - Competition Tactics

Ross Kirkland - Activities for coaching precise footwork

Ross Hunter - Using video analysis in coaching

Neil McGeachy - Coaching momentum & advance balance techniques

The day rounded up with an opportunity for every one to have a group discussion on the role of coaching within youth development & how we can build on the success the current set up.  All in all today was a great success and as a member of the MCofS coaching team for more than 12 years, it was extremely rewarding to see so many of the aspirants, assistants & coaches in attendance being young climbers who have progressed through the set up as talented climbers themselves.  Thus showing the on going culture of Scottish Climbers putting something back into the development of the sport.  Very exciting times lies ahead.

Chaining 8b : the training journey so far...

Since making my mind up to train hard again towards chaining my 8b ambition this year, I have been focusing the priority on my elbow rehab first in combination with basic weight and fitness conditioning to get me fit enough to take a training pounding over the next 30 weeks or so.

Flexibility and lack of core fitness and strength are my obvious weaknesses as a climber and so I am focusing on these in particluar with stretching every day and working a little harder on core. I am more concerned right now with creating a flexiblity across my body first then i will build a stronger core through both training and climbing on approriately steep rock in coming weeks.  

Most weeks are filled with easy route climbing to keep the head and fingers ticking over while I prepare the other areas and each day is filled with as much inspiration as i can un earth to drive me forward to ocho b...

I took a trip into Spain to visit a great friend and coach for a day in the Spanish Pirineos on a great canyon crag housing an awesome 7b. We used my red point strategies to help provide my friend with more structure in improving her approach to projecting and so we shaped the whole day around that single process of working for a red point instead of just trying something at your limit to see how you get on...

Prepare your day, your mind and your body then you will produce a better performance and ultimately succeed in red pointing the project at your true limit instead of some miss informed percieved limit.

Mi amiga  Sonia using ReAch red point strategy on her 7b proyecto

sonia feliz en su paraíso Pirineos!

Then it was down into Barcelona to meet the cool guys from JM Climbing to discuss the Eva Lopez Transgression and Progression systems to help me train to 8b. Having studied the training strategy I have worked out my plan with the system and it looks like I will opt for the following:

• A first phase of a  5 week block on Maximal Strength Development
• 2 week rest
• second phase of 8 week Strength Endurance phase
• 2 week rest
• 8 week Advanced Maximal Strength phase
• 2 week rest
• 8 week Advanced Strength Endurance phase

Back over into the Pirineos de Francia

Midnight runs when it's cool in the Pyrenees near Foix

La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada by Haroun Souirji

La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.

The 'Mind' of a project...

Recently I was flattered to be recognized by an awesome Spanish female climber and trainer who is rigorous in her study of the training for sport climbing. (http://www.facebook.com/evalopezriv/posts/2904009751866)

Eva Lopez has impressed me greatly, not just by her climbing (8c - that is amazing and stands for itself!) but by her approach to research and it is this which interests me allot for now.

Having the patience and strategic intent to do a great , in depth job of understanding a key element to improving one's climbing is something I have slowly began to try and unfold. Being in contact with Eva recently has certainly reminded me of how I need to be more long term minded about my climbing strategies especially to help me get to the next level and break a psychological barrier for myself.

This all got me thinking about my previous approach when I started back in 2010 with 6a to 8a and I just remembered the most important thing that drove the whole process... The project and my mindset that allowed me to complete it.

It just came back to me as I was thinking about my new project and the frustrations that are in the way (current elbow injury, 4 kilos of extra weight - which was intentional to train with in a bouldering environment since October BLCC's to increase my maximal strength but i over cooked it!), then I began to get that feeling again... that certain knowing feeling, when I am beginning to realize that I am going to do this project.., because I want it!

The importance of it for me, has to outweigh all the other things in my life for that period of the project and so, that is a big requirement for any human being, especially in this fast paced world full of things that are allowed to get in the way of staying focused on a particularly personal objective. But the answer before was for me to build my life around the project, not build the project around my life...

And so, I want to be trained over a sustainable period of the project that will allow me to make the changes and truly facilitate what needs to happen to my body to achieve the goal... Climb with much better climbers who have the experience, be motivated by them and trust in myself by making action in my daily life over wishful thinking.

I fell off a 7b in Cubells near Lleida with mi amiga from Monistrol when here at Christmas after my knee operation and although 8b just felt so far away then (still does now) I told her I needed to fall on a route since my operation, because only then could i begin to start trying hard again - trying close to my true limit.

The mind obviously drives this and it is the holder of motivation and the value that I have to place on achieving this goal, firstly has to make sense: The plan must be capable 'as a strategy for success' and address all the outcomes in it's path including my own weaknesses and self doubts. But I understand I have to have that singular simple belief that I will climb 8b and then, I use my head to get me there.

So for me, ocho b (8b) is not a number anymore..It's my new life and those 'chains' will be soooooooooooo sweet.. this i know, but the journey, the journey is what i love... Vamos!

Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ...

Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ... en contacto con Mark markmcgowan01@gmail.com directa a preguntar por precios o concertar una reunión.

Montserrat, Cataluna

Alex tirando con fuerza con el apoyo del entrenador!

 el duo de locos!Sant Benet, Montserrat

Jo demostrando un buen talon en f7a en Can Bouquet puede cerca de Barcelona