Tuesday, 12 October 2010


Basic Plyometrics for the fingers

This is just an introduction to maximising impact on fingers at limit of grip on the 45 board. Although elemental, I have found that it lifts your contact strength quite quickly when a block is done after a finger strength block from finger boarding on maximum grips.

For me, the onus is on holding forced slaps between a few short dynamic moves at one's near single max grip to induce aggressive concentric action for the muscles. I find this quite different on the fingers from slow strength moves that are developed in the strength phase using lock off's etc.

I was doing 2 sessions lasting about 5 mins per set over 3 sets per session with 10 min rests between sets with a minimum gap of 2 hrs between each session to achieve a non lactic state at near full power as possible. I also mix up the moves in a vertical sequence to get the most from each attempt as it seems to help avoid lactate build up during set.

Ross H on f7c+ (Dumby)
Chris E on f7c+ (Dumby)
The goal is to convert what finger strength I have to finger power (strength + dynamics). A stronger climber would not experience this as powerful on their fingers and this is relative to working with grips at an angle on the board that is as close to your 100% max grip. If it's not, then it wont do the job of delivering explosive concentric activity on your fingers.

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)