Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Ratho EICA Bouldering competition on Feb 19th

Reach Climbing Coach is sponsoring the event with a 1:1 coaching session from Mark McGowan at the EICA

Saturday, 15 January 2011

BMC Leading Ladder - Route set at EICA - Ratho

Ratho Routes are now set on the Competition wall for the BMC Leader Ladder as Follows:

Black 6b
Orange 6a+
Green  6b
White 6b+
Pink 6c+
Green 7a
Pink 7b
Black 7c
Green 8a

Gary Vincent, 
Neil Busby, 
Neil McGeachy, 
Mark McGowan



Geek route testing 7a

Thursday, 13 January 2011

Calum Forsyth

My name is Calum Forsyth. I work and climb at the Edinburgh international climbing arena (Eica) in Ratho, just outside Edinburgh.

I have been climbing for about 8 years now and have done many competitions, these have been mainly regional and national, including the Youth Climbing Series and British team trials.
I have now competed in three team trials, in the previous two I have finished in 6th place and 8th place. the most recent team trials I entered was on the 27th November 2010, at Awesome Walls Climbing Centre, Liverpool,. This was my second trip to this wall.
Earlier this year i suffered an injury to the growth plate in one of my fingers in my right hand, at the time i was gutted, i was climbing well and all i wanted to do was continue, but, i soon realised it wasn't doing any good and i had to think of the long term effect it would have had if i continued to climb whilst not 100%. i set myself a goal of returning to climbing and aiming for the Team trials. I knew I had 6 months to get strong and fit again but I knew it wouldn't be easy and I was right!
I was so determined to do well in the team trials, i gradually built up my training programme, I trained 4 times a week with Gary Vincent (Gaz) and the master as we know him, Neill Busby (Buzz). Throughout the six months I found it really hard to stay focussed but with two really great guys spurring me on it was easy to stay motivated and best of all psyched. As the comp grew nearer my training decreased to easy climbing so not to get tired and injured. I kind off struggled with that one, i wondered why the climbing was getting easier, it didn't seem right but Gaz and Buzz convinced me it was the best way.

On the Friday the day before the comp my parents and I travelled down to the hotel we were going to be staying at. After a 4 hour journey we arrived in Liverpool we met up with a few other people who made the long travel south such as Nikki and Steven Addison (coming from Inverness 7hrs!!!!) , Olivia and Gabriella Stewart, Megan Sanders, William and Alexander Bosi,and Rachel Carr who all climb at Ratho on a regular basis.
The morning of the competition was obviously a nervous one as I didn't have aclue what to expect, the comp routine probably always the same but for some reason it never seems to workout that way! So after breakfast we headed off to the wall for registration. At the wall we were met by Rob Adie and were told what to do, sign in, collect our competition number and our t-shirts (yellow!). The it was straight off to see what climbs I would be doing.

The first route was around 18 meters high on the side wall which started off with two massive orange holds and suddenly it went into the most crimpy route I had seen in a long time and that's when the nerves got worse, bit i convinced myself as it was not very steep climbing and I was the fifth person to climb it. On the other hand I looked at my second route and it looked like it was set by the master busby as it was on the steep wave at the back of the wall it was a very awkward looking sequence but as to most of busby routes there is a hard way and an easy way the hard part was finding the easy way of doing it.

And I had no idea of what number I would be climbing as it was still yet to be decided on in the first route.
When it came to the first person climbing the orange I was watching closely to see how he made the moves and when he fell of I was worried about the grade of climb and then didn't focus on the other three climbers before me as I was so nervous so I went to warm up for 20 mins just trying to stay warm and not get pumped then it was my shot at the climb which had already spat of four other people so I was worried about getting started but after the first few moves I was back to my usual self blanking everything out and whistling to the music in the background as I do to focus my self there was one part of the route everyone kept falling of and I was thinking to my self I no I can't fall of if I won't a good score so I decided to not clip and get to the next good hold before reaching down and clipping and it worked for me so I fought on to the top. I was so surprised that I had completed those route now on to the next climb.

All I had to do now wad wait and see how the other 16 competitors got on before seeing were I would place on the next route. After the results were posted I was only one of. Eight climbers to do this route and would there for climb on the yell one eighth as I was first to top out.
The second qualifier was an awkward looking route which was set by Neill Busby who also works and climbs at ratho. It was on the steep wave wall at the back of the church it started on the corner side of the wave on quite large holds but most of the route was on rubbish holds with a lot of awkward foot placements that were key to doing it. As it came to my climb I stepped up and didn't look at the route before jumping onto it as I just wanted to climb and of I went on this crazy looking climb that was technical from the off the first crux in this route was about five clips up were you had to traverse across this steep wall into a corner and clip then I realised that I was able to double clip which meant less hanging about on small holds trying to clip. After snacking out for a we bit I then had to make my way across to this big heel hook to balance my self out and pull up for the next hold so after all of that I was totally pumped and was determined to stay on the wall so I fought on until the second last hold before falling off.

Despite not topping out, I was extremely happy with my efforts on this route and I think Buz was as well, he congratulated me on my effort and asked what I thought of the route I replied "it was rubbish!!!! (i told him i was only joking and it was in fact a really cool climb)
So all I had to do now was wait and see were I would finish or if I would make it to the final. Once everybody had tried route 2 it was time for us to wait around 20 mins to see who made the finial. When the results were posted, there were 10 people going through and sadly the other 9 didn't quite make it. To my surprise I made the finial in 7th place and was so psyched. Once every competitor had finished we were told we had to be in isolation for 1400hrs, if we were late we wouldn't be allowed to compete. This gave me 30 mins to get all my kit and food together before going down into the bouldering cave which was used as isolation.

At 1400hrs we were told that viewing for our route would be at 1430hrs as this 30 mins gave the route setters times to change the routes a little bit. After viewing we were sent back down into isolation and told the running orders of the categories and low and behold my category was out last which gave use 3hrs in total doing nothing apart from trying to find ways to stay occupied. I think isolation should become an Olympic Sport in its own right because its sooooooooo hard!!!!

As I listened to everyones name being called out I was bored beyond belief but I also knew it was getting closer to my turn to climb. Most of all I just wanted to go out and climb (i'm not the best person to keep locked in a room for 3 hrs) I spent most of my time making up stupid boulder challenges with the other competitors who shared my pain.
After 3hrs it was my turn to take to the stage on a very hard and incredibly awkward route set by none other than Tom Randell. I had climbed a number of Toms routes at the BLCC's so I knew it would have a lot of heel and toe hooks in it and low an behold there was! I started this climb as any other, I walked straight out and did what needed to be done which was climb. I climbed the first few moves with a few mishaps but held in there as long as i physically could before making such a bad error by wrong handing myself. i was disappointed because it was a stupid mistake and not a technical or physical error it was my own stupid mistake. I wasn't going to get worked up about it as I made the finial which was already my biggest achievement of the day.

After watching the other people climbing the scores were in and calculated. After the scores were posted it was quite a surprise on how closely packed the category was. As the results were posted I was named in 9th position which I thought was very respectable given the time scale I had to train for but I couldn't have had a better time competing. It was also great to meet up with people again, funny sport this climbing thing, meet and greet lots of fab people.

Sunday, 9 January 2011

The Johnny Dawes Project

Johnny and I met for the first time since 1987 yesterday, which is a long time I suppose as I was 19 and he 22: Young guys wanting to be the best we could be.

He, like me has been training hard again and some great training days have been had down here in sunny Worcester.

John's passion for climbing at the limit is still truly alight and some exciting new climbing projects are afoot...which is nice.

Its great to train with someone who has the same passion for climbing and getting the best from your body and translating it to moving better over the rock.

The Peak next for a Day on the Grit with Dawes...


Tuesday, 4 January 2011

Route Setting on Ratho Boulders today with the BUZZ... To infinity & beyond...

Ratho Boulder Field

Yellow v5 - a bit slappy!
Fraser on Yellow v5

  • Yellow v5 - a bit slappy! but ooooooooh nice...
  • Green v5 - a bit slopey! with fingery undercut that hates you!
  • Grey v2 - a bit ropey! 


Monday, 3 January 2011

Outdoor Bouldering Days V0 to V6

Bouldering at Kyloe In The Woods
We are running day trips to various quality locations within a 150 mile radios of Glasgow (on land!) and offer climbers the opportunity to transfer their well earned indoor skills out onto the blocs at a variety of great locations for day drips with coaching included or excluded if required.

Our initial trips are:
  • Bowden Doors - V0 to V6
  • Kyloe in the Woods - V3 to V6
Great days out with fun guaranteed!

View Bouldering in a larger map


For costs and availability, please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com  for further information.

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)