Sunday, 25 September 2016

#myopiaproject #reflections #trainingwithoutaproject


It feels a little weird to be retraining without a specific project or goal in mind. But it also feels good for me.

After four weeks I'm finally beginning to enjoy the bouldering sessions for the fun of the movement and not like hauling a bull around. Once you start moving on rock something resembling what you know you can, it motivates me. It feels good as I love that movement.

In Glasgow I was lucky enough to have easy access to world class bouldering centre called The Climbing Academy and this access just motivates you more and more and eventually the training stops being training and becomes fun and a large part of your social life, a climbing lifestyle if you like (be it indoors).

So, it feels like I need to concentrate on gaining more access to bouldering and build that back into my weekly lifestyle.

Been doing more press ups for the elbows and shoulders. Need rock shoes that fit and will improve my heel and toe techniques.

Friday, 23 September 2016

#Week4 #81kg


Week 4:

Weighed in for first time in long time... 81kg

That's heavy. I climbed 8a in 2010 at 77kg and 8a+ at 72kg in 2012. Strength to weight is everything in climbing and at the moment I need to concentrate on developing finger strength and general conditioning for climbing before focusing too much on weight.

Working the fingers this week with weighted finger hangs.

Saturday, 17 September 2016

#myopiaproject #daystoweeks #week3 #strengthtoweight


Week 3:

Moved my diary to weeks so that when I was being lazy I could hide it easier. Always a good tactic to remain strategically motivated :)

A good week with finger strength gains noticeable during my bouldering and systems session. Happy with strength to weight at this stage.

Need to increase antagonistic training for balance and injury avoidance.
Really enjoying the slow paced progression and fitting rock climbing training back into my life. Need a wall closer to home (Suzi!)

Stretching needs more love. Again! Keep saying it..


Monday, 12 September 2016

#myopiaproject #strengthtraining #15kilosdifference #edgehogE4

Day14

Weighted finger hangs on front three then back three. Working enslaved fingers for quicker gains. Then some reverse one arm work.

No run today. Feeling a little stronger with this weight. Keep up the same strategy for now.

I was 65 kilos back then...

Sunday, 11 September 2016

#Myopiaproject #Day13 #core #stretching


Day13 :

Feeling motivated after yesterday's session. Morning run, core, stretching and some weights.

Need more stretching.

Saturday, 10 September 2016

#Myopiaproject #Day12 #fingersfirst


Day12

Back on it with fingers on systems board with the four move campus sequence sets. Then managed a 6c flash on a rope with Suzi.

A run back at home. Happy with gains.
Keep going at this weight for a bit. Feeling good.

Need new Rock shoes and a sport rope.

Friday, 9 September 2016

#Myopiaproject #RIPcurl #Dogs #Horses #TCA


Day 10 & 11:

Day 10 fell into 11 with only stretching and some walking in flip flops. Day 11 was scheduled for fingers but fell off the horse.

My dog recently ate my gifted Ripcurl flip flops from Zermatt: They cost zillions. But luckily they 
are still usable. 

A package arrived by post but wasn't in so postman left a card. I think I know what it is! It's for my fingers from the The Climbing Academy (TCA)

Weight is coming down...

Wednesday, 7 September 2016

#Myopiaproject #Day9 #core #strawberries

Day 9:
Did core and stretching in evening. Getting bendier.
Fingers and shoulders recovering from last night's session. Had a great night time run. Inspiring. Reminded me of runs from Auzat to Spanish border.


Tuesday, 6 September 2016

#MyopiaProject. #Day8 #fingers2

Day 8: Had DOMS in forearms for a few days. Feels good again. Working fingers on systems. Can still smell the cheesecake!

I've know real idea where I'm going with this. But I'm going!

Monday, 5 September 2016

Sunday, 4 September 2016

#MyopiaProject #Day6 #GreenBeans

Day 6:
Had a longer deeper stretch. Forearms feel tight after yesterday. 

All good. Had a run to drive down weight. 

Green beans are growing like mad! Ate some yesterday. Nice ...

Enjoyed my core work yesterday and can feel it today a little. Here's the 2nd clip of the ultimate core cave!

Saturday, 3 September 2016

#Myopiaproject #Day5 #Systems


Day 5:
Did my stretching a short run then down to local wall for boulder and some feet off campus on systems board. Weak as piss but getting lighter...

Friday, 2 September 2016

#MyopiaProject #Day4.5 #8aForTCA!


This is a section of one of the great 8a's in the Grotte De Sabart which eventually,after many repeats, I could use to warm up. It was an amazing feeling to get your core to that level and I learned a lot from this style after being shown the technical beta by Stevie.

I'm really looking forward to having a strong enough core to hang upside down like this again.

Went for a run after some core work, conscious of my body wanting to run more (after the alpine trip) but aware that this is not about running, it's about getting rock climbing fit. Run for a burn and that's it...

#MyopiaProject #Day4 #Fingers #Dog

Weighted Finger hangs
Day 4: Less sunshine, chased the escaped dog for 20 mins until captured and jailed accordingly!

Finally got down to some training with a short weighted finger hanging session to get the fingers in the loop. Stretching, some core and probably a run later to keep driving the weight down slowly. Good to train heavy but need to get lighter to avoid injury for when the campus rungs arrive.

I reckon I am onsighting about 6b+ at moment and red pointing about 7a! It's been a long time since fingers have seen any structured training! I love that feeling you get when your finger strength begins to develop. Should come back quickly if I am consistent in training. Just got to get that fire burning...

Inspiration...

Thursday, 1 September 2016

#MyopiaProject #Day3


Another shiny morning! Did more stretching and a short run before work. Feels good but long way to go with flexibility!

Referrals from clients:



"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)


" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)