Monday, 25 June 2012

Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers...

Stretching - warm up
setting some bloc moves for PE circuits
Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege
(Photo: Ian Storey)
After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart, the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).

Jon Stoelker  of Base Calames sending a 7b at Genat
Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart.  I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...

Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own  PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.

My PE for the fingers is this:

  • Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until they yield. 
  • Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets, 
  • Then weight vest circuits... Then start again!

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)