Systems Training

System set at the Beacon Climbing Centre, Wales

 Began training again using a system that I used to try and maximise my time when I had 6 weeks to get as much Power Endurance as I could for the BLCC's a year ago. It consists of building maximal strength for the fingers using borderline grip types with little distance between them to maximise the focus on the finger loading and contact strength before the natural progression towards PE is achieved by default. Finishes with campus sets on jugs once the fingers are drained to build more power across the back and shoulder girdle... Takes an hour.

1st session today at the Beacon Climbing Centre where I trained for an hour on the system then nearly fell off every easy route I tried after just an hour on the system. So it works ... For me!

Owen Jones trying out my system

If you are interested in 1:1 training sessions for increased Power Endurance sessions with Mark at the Beacon Climbing Centre , then contact him on markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details.

Finger StrengthTraining System by Eva Lopez now available in UK

The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez and JM Climbing of Barcelona has finally made it onto British soil. It is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)

ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and have brought this innovative training board and methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.

ReAch Coach: Ruth Jenkins

For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at  verticalventures@talktalk.net or contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).

Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training

Increasing strength is a great way to crack the concrete of a climbing plateau and systems training seems to be the best way that I have found to increase my finger strength...not bouldering. Bouldering is not as deep and is great for honing power but I have always found that structured systems training the most effective then followed by bouldering. To pull powerfully from one hold to another on a boulder problem, you must first be able to hold and pull on the hold first! This is finger 'strength' not power...

To shift into a new level of climbing requires change to what you are doing and for that I find you also need a commitment to the process of what you are trying to achieve...

I have always found that a particular focus on one strategy for a time period of just two weeks with total consistency in the training and recovery provides noticeable results. I have recently been focused on trying to establish a new level of Power Endurance and to do that I have been using a mix of plyometrics and absolute strength tactics to try and lift my capacity for singular power to a higher level before attempting to convert to power endurance.

This style of training (plyometrics), tends to require not only a higher level of strength to control the shock loading as it penetrates the nervous system, but also longer recovery on particular exercises is required.

For our Advanced Plyo-Systems Training Program then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com