'Above Goal' route projecting during a 'power phase'

Comp wall EICA (Photo: Fraser Harle)

 Above Goal  training is key for me for introducing my body and mind to new levels of difficulty or intensity and has proven to be a great tool when used within the correct phase of my Strength>Power>PE cycle. 


I have found that getting on a route which is at your maximum bouldering capacity during say the end of a strength or beginning of a power phase of a training block really tunes your muscles and can deliver a high intensity session. I went on a tough 8b+ at the EICA main competition wall to test my current finger and upper body strength on the moves of a route which is way above my current red point standard.


The moves that I did felt like hard font 7a+ or V6/7 (up to the 8th bolt) with lots of power being required to take allot of body weight on big moves between small holds. I love getting on hard routes for the experience of trying to understand what I will need to be capable of to complete my goal of on-sighting an 8a.


So why go on an 8b+? For me, I am convinced that I will need that kind of power endurance, capable of red pointing an 8b or even 8b+ to succeed on an 8a on-sight. Red pointing an 8a is obviously allot easier than on sighting one and the physical effort required to manage and compensate for on-sight route reading errors, tensions, pressing etc, is in my view the same as red pointing a much harder route.


And it is easy to say these things but another thing to actually put yourself up there and try way above your goal...


But the aim of this is to increase physical capability of climbing hard on a route as opposed just trying to simulate it through other tactics like bouldering. Getting on the 8b+ is for me a BIG step forward in educating myself on what needs to happen...FACT!

" I was never more certain of how far away I was from my goal than when I was standing right beside it...." (cant remember who said this - but I like it!)

Gurning the moves on 8b+ (Photo: Fraser Harle)

(Photo: Fraser Harle)

EICA Session score card

Playing the game ...

Kyloe In The Woods from Willackers on Vimeo.

Basic Plyometrics for the fingers

This is just an introduction to maximising impact on fingers at limit of grip on the 45 board. Although elemental, I have found that it lifts your contact strength quite quickly when a block is done after a finger strength block from finger boarding on maximum grips.





For me, the onus is on holding forced slaps between a few short dynamic moves at one's near single max grip to induce aggressive concentric action for the muscles. I find this quite different on the fingers from slow strength moves that are developed in the strength phase using lock off's etc.


I was doing 2 sessions lasting about 5 mins per set over 3 sets per session with 10 min rests between sets with a minimum gap of 2 hrs between each session to achieve a non lactic state at near full power as possible. I also mix up the moves in a vertical sequence to get the most from each attempt as it seems to help avoid lactate build up during set.

Ross H on f7c+ (Dumby)

Chris E on f7c+ (Dumby)

The goal is to convert what finger strength I have to finger power (strength + dynamics). A stronger climber would not experience this as powerful on their fingers and this is relative to working with grips at an angle on the board that is as close to your 100% max grip. If it's not, then it wont do the job of delivering explosive concentric activity on your fingers.

Planning a Plyometric Session

The choice of exercises within a session and their order should be planned. A session could:

• begin with exercises that are fast, explosive and designed for developing elastic strength
• work through exercises that develop concentric strength
• finish with training for eccentric strength

(When eccentric only training has been compared to concentric only training, several researchers have discovered that eccentric training yields greater increases in strength than concentric.)




The Vid quality isn't great...but it's not about the vid quality!

I was down at the track taking photos and saw Linford Christie racing at the The Kelvin Hall (around 1990) where I trained and I was frankly stunned at his sheer explosive power...amazing!

Speed Training into Climbing

The general principles for improved explosive power are as follows:

• Choose a reasonable goal for your project, and then work on climbing at a difficulty which is actually harder than your goal over short work sessions
• Train at goal difficulty in order to enhance your neuromuscular coordination, confidence and stamina at your desired power
• At first, utilise long recoveries, but as you get fitter and stronger shorten the recovery periods between work intervals to make your training more specific and realistic to climbing. Also move on to longer work sessions, as you are able
• Work on your aerobic capacity and lactate threshold, conduct some easy routes to burn calories and permit recovery from the power sessions
• Work on your mobility to develop a range of movement (range of motion at your hips will effect power) and assist in the prevention of injury

Speed Training into Climbing