Friday, 21 October 2011

FULL OF MYSELF... Johnny Dawes book Launch


"Written with devoted passion and brutal honesty, Full of Myself  lays bare Johnny's bipolar mix of privilege and pain, wizardry and dysfunction. Master of friction and momentum, the living embodiment of poetry in motion turns his hand to pen with great effect."
Leo Houlding
"It's brilliant - frank, funny, telling his full life story, not just the climbing.  And the climbing accounts are riveting as well. A great read from cover to cover."
Sir Chris Bonington
"Much like his climbing, his imagination leaps.  This is a beautiful book about an extraordinary person.  William Blake with sticky boots."
Simon Beaufoy (Academy Award Winning Screen Writer - Slum Dog Millionaire, Full Monty, 127 Hours)
"I don't climb, I ride bikes, but this book got me by the balls!!!"
Steve Peat (World Downhill Mountainbike champion)
"Johnny always seemed some kind of freak from the very first picture of him I ever saw. I could see positive freakiness that made him go out of the ordinary, to climb those things that must be admired and that should inspire many to come."
Adam Ondra

To buy a hot off the press signed hardback copy, click on the Buy Now button.


Monday, 17 October 2011

British Lead Climbing Championships 2011

The competition wall at EICA Ratho

The Junior, Youth and Veterans categories were held on Saturday 15th.  On the second day, Sunday 16th, the senior BLCCs, and the British Speed Climbing Championships, were held.
The BMC British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCCs) were held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday and Sunday 15th & 16th October 2011.
Junior  & Youth Results
Female Juniors1. Lucy Mitchell
2. Jessica MCCaskey
Male Juniors1. Ed Hamer
2. Luke Tilley
3. Jonathan Field
Female Youth A1. Charlotte Garden
2. Sarah Pashley
3. Jennifer Wood
Male Youth A1. Jonny White
2. Tom Bonnert
3. Andrew Colligan
Female Youth B1. Molly Thompson-Smith
2. Rachel Carr
3. Tara Hayes
Male Youth B1. Connor Byrne
2. Dominic Burns
3. Brendan Gallagher
Female Youth C1. Ellisa Bryant
2. Carmel Moran
3. Hannah Slaney
Male Youth C1. Angus Davidson
2. William Bosi
3. James Pope
The male veterans competition also took place on Saturday 15th. No female veterans entered hence there was no competition.

Male Veterans 
1. Eddie Cooper
2. Mark Richardson
3. Nick Colton
Click here for full results of the junior BLCC

Senior Results
The senior BLCCs were held on the Sunday, 16th November.
In two really exciting finals, boulderer Dave Barrans pipped Ed Hamer. In the female final, last woman out, Shauna Coxsey, moved one hold past Nat Berry's high point to clip the lower-off to loud cheers. Totally absorbing!
Female Senior
1. Shauna Coxsey
2. Natalie Berry
3. Michaela Tracy
Male Senior
1. Dave Barrans
2. Ed Hamer
3. Luke Tilley
Click here for full results of the senior BLCC

Speed Climbing results
More information about the BLCCs and the BSCCs here
BMC thanks supporters
The BMC would like to thank all those who contributed to the success of the event. This includes the vast number of enthusiatic volunteers who do such a fantastic job. They judge, chaperone, belay, score the event, register competitors, allocate T-shirts, warm up competitors, run errands, and so on, the list is virtually endless. The event really couldn't take place without their outstanding and unstinting support. And, also, let's not forget the competitors themselves and all their numerous supporters!
Thanks also go to all the professionals who work at the event. This includes the owners and staff at EICA Ratho for making us feel so welcome and putting in a huge effort to make the final a success, the commentator Ian Smith, the route-setters for great routes, BMC staff both present at the event and those in the office who work behind the scenes.
And finally, thanks to all the sponsors who supported both the BMC in putting on this event. These include EICA, Mammut, and Entre-prises.

By Nick Colton

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)