Sunday, 25 September 2016
It feels a little weird to be retraining without a specific project or goal in mind. But it also feels good for me.
After four weeks I'm finally beginning to enjoy the bouldering sessions for the fun of the movement and not like hauling a bull around. Once you start moving on rock something resembling what you know you can, it motivates me. It feels good as I love that movement.
In Glasgow I was lucky enough to have easy access to world class bouldering centre called The Climbing Academy and this access just motivates you more and more and eventually the training stops being training and becomes fun and a large part of your social life, a climbing lifestyle if you like (be it indoors).
So, it feels like I need to concentrate on gaining more access to bouldering and build that back into my weekly lifestyle.
Been doing more press ups for the elbows and shoulders. Need rock shoes that fit and will improve my heel and toe techniques.
Friday, 23 September 2016
Saturday, 17 September 2016
Moved my diary to weeks so that when I was being lazy I could hide it easier. Always a good tactic to remain strategically motivated :)
A good week with finger strength gains noticeable during my bouldering and systems session. Happy with strength to weight at this stage.
Need to increase antagonistic training for balance and injury avoidance.
Stretching needs more love. Again! Keep saying it..
Monday, 12 September 2016
Weighted finger hangs on front three then back three. Working enslaved fingers for quicker gains. Then some reverse one arm work.
No run today. Feeling a little stronger with this weight. Keep up the same strategy for now.
I was 65 kilos back then...
Sunday, 11 September 2016
Saturday, 10 September 2016
Friday, 9 September 2016
Weight is coming down...
Wednesday, 7 September 2016
Tuesday, 6 September 2016
Monday, 5 September 2016
Sunday, 4 September 2016
Had a longer deeper stretch. Forearms feel tight after yesterday.
Enjoyed my core work yesterday and can feel it today a little. Here's the 2nd clip of the ultimate core cave!
Saturday, 3 September 2016
Friday, 2 September 2016
|Weighted Finger hangs|
Finally got down to some training with a short weighted finger hanging session to get the fingers in the loop. Stretching, some core and probably a run later to keep driving the weight down slowly. Good to train heavy but need to get lighter to avoid injury for when the campus rungs arrive.
I reckon I am onsighting about 6b+ at moment and red pointing about 7a! It's been a long time since fingers have seen any structured training! I love that feeling you get when your finger strength begins to develop. Should come back quickly if I am consistent in training. Just got to get that fire burning...
Thursday, 1 September 2016
Wednesday, 31 August 2016
|A sunset from the White Spider|
I awoke around 6am this morning and decided to try and begin the process by making a strong coffee, two slices of chunky toast with Marmite (love it!) and unrolled the yoga mat out the back under the sky with a lovely rising sun shining across the garden.
Stuck on the headphones playing Castaway and began some light stretching. Someone once said to me on an island "do something six times and it becomes habit". I love listening to music when staring up at the sky, past your washing on the line, into the first layer of clouds and watching a jet force it's path across the view out of sync with the rest of nature. It reminds me of a bad red point! Unlike the glider which reminds me of a perfect solo, on a perfect day, high up, in a perfect place.
I was thinking about what areas of my body that I should begin to focus on first and I have come up with these elements based on my experience of self and climbing:
- general flexibility
- static finger strength
- and eventually campus strength
I also realized this morning that it is all about something more for me. Getting in touch with your body is one of the most strengthening things for the mind, for my well being anyway. No great news to most, but actually living it takes commitment. But I want balance this time. I want it all to fuel my happiness.
|A sunrise in the Pyrenees|
Tuesday, 30 August 2016
* An outcome
* Resources Required
* A Timeline
Monday, 29 August 2016
And two years out of hard training for rock climbing felt hard but also lead to some great adventures and developments less selfish had I not hit the fence post so selfishly at speed!
I always struggle when my body cannot deliver the level I want in climbing and I usually find myself straying off track towards some other things that holds my attention. But I have always found that a break has this great capacity of regenerating one's motivation to a newer, higher level than before. Some people never slumber with their motivation and just keep trucking along, but that's just me, I enjoy the break and variety of other things.
Right now I want a project. I want something that will hold my mind, require a trained body and be worth a six month journey back to what I was physically and beyond. It would be nice to record the journey in some way, wither on the internet or through film.
|Grotte de Sabart|
I've climbed and trained with some world class climbers from all the different disciplines in climbing from trad climbing, bouldering, sport climbing, competition climbing and alpine climbing with climbers like Johnny Dawes, Malcolm Smith, Stevie Haston and more.
I have learned when I could and tried to focus where I should and always tried to move my climbing forward. But the most stimulating climbing experience I have had in terms of training was with Stevie in the Grotte de Sabart cave in the Pyrenees where he introduced me to the amazing world of three dimensional climbing on one of the world's most amazing roof climbs that I had seen.
|Metis (8b+) Photo: Alan James/UKC|
But there is also this amazing bulging wall with tiny crimps that I worked a few years ago on a crag further up the valley in the Pyrenees. Very different style bit equally satisfying a project. So no definitive project yet, but it feels like a new journey in climbing for me.
Sunday, 27 March 2016
We are recruiting for 5 clients looking to train using our online Dual Factor Training Programme beginning early next month
Wednesday, 2 March 2016
Tuesday, 20 October 2015
Tuesday, 13 October 2015
Urko Carmona Barandiaran en 8a+
Otros Los países son la gran familia...
Como con mi español , quiero aprender más técnicas y movimientos para los escaladores con una pierna. Con mi conexion a España es fuerte, ya que es donde yo elegí para ir a construir una mejor conexión y la comprensión de lo que quería para mi país natal , Escocia , el británico
|Phill Mitchell & Mark McGowan at Sheffield IFSC 2015 World Cup|
"I was inspired by Urko's effect on our GB climbers and the positive effect that he was having on us and the outcome was one of Phil's most inspired competitive performance. For me, this is what makes Paraclimbing competition great. The family it has created internationally and the support and mutual inspiration we share."
Wednesday, 7 October 2015
It's important to be reminded of this, especially when things become confusing as to why you sometimes train so hard in climbing and sometimes not... Either way, it seems the best moments in climbing are because of friends not solo, alone on a big wall, that is something else.
Tuesday, 29 September 2015
Nunca he creído en este tipo de productos similares . Probablemente porque creo que el cuerpo tiene la capacidad para cuidar de sí mismo en tales áreas. Pero , estoy viendo un beneficio para la comodidad de mi piel después de la formación de las sesiones con la aplicación de Climbskin . El problema es que estoy usando un montón de él! ¿Necesita más por favor!
... Te tengo bajo mi piel...
Thursday, 17 September 2015
Official trailer for "Defiance - The Eiger Paraclimb" by Finalcrux Films Full film release date TBC.
Full film release date TBC.
Wednesday, 16 September 2015
|New routing on Gozo Island|
The plan will work around the cycle of Strength > Power> Power Endurance against a back drop of a Fatigue cycle to induce an extended climbing peak.
If you are keen to train for 6 weeks using our online Dual Factor Programme then please contact email@example.com for details. The cost for the October Team is £50 or 50 euros (English & Spanish)
Wednesday, 26 August 2015
LECTURE BY MARK MCGOWAN
"Abseiling down from the Eiger summit in a storm in the dark with a blind climber, an Autistic climber and a climber with MS wasn't terrifying, it just felt meaningful..."
|(Photo: Finalcrux Films)|
If you are an organisation looking to book the lecture then please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for details or enquire on form below:
Monday, 24 August 2015
|Filming new routes on Gozo island|
Big Rock Climbing Centre in MK are teaming up to provide regular coaching sessions from Mark McGowan from Reach Climbing Coach.
If you live in the area and are looking to improve your climbing with structured sessions from a GB Team coach then get in touch to arrange a 2hr session at Big Rock with Mark for £30.
Contact email@example.com or call Chris on Tel: 01908 583 128 to arrange your session.
Big Rock Climbing Centre
Monday, 10 August 2015
Don't just hope and pray for the best in your climbing, take action based on experience with our climbers on the rainbow project: Autism At Height.
|Jamie Owen (Autistic) & his friend |
John Churcher (World's first blind
Paraclimbers to summit the Eiger)
|Jay on the Eiger|
"Working every week with Jamie in North Wales, around UK competitions, climbing in the Pyrenees and finally sharing the summit of the notorious Eiger, has been life changing for both of us. I understand Jamie and his perspective, sometimes more than I understand the 'neurotically' shaped ideas of what is 'normal' in life and society. First we built mutual trust, then friendship, then we focused on driving his performance in climbing.
Jamie has won every competition he has entered and now climbed the Eiger and that is why he is a key part of our project. Autism at Height has and is learning so much from Jamie and his perseverance, kindness and basic will to improve his own and others lives like his, is what makes my work so meaningful and worthwhile..." (Mark McGowan)
Now based in Northamptonshire, we are hoping to develop the project in England as well as planned trips further afield. Please get in touch if the Autism At Height project is of interest to you or someone you know.
Referrals from clients:
"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)
" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)