Friday, 13 July 2018
Tuesday, 3 July 2018
I'm really in the swing of things at the moment in terms of enjoying my climbing again and in particular 'the process' of learning a new style of movement.
Working this brilliantly set v6+ yellow on the underside of this boulder is great fun. The sequence is foot lead, which is my worst nightmare as I just want to campus it to death, but I am being very disciplined and just working the technique of the move in the way it was set and to do three foot moves (toe hooks) without moving my hands feels like someone stabbing me in the eye with a hot spoon, but it also feels like real progress.
This is the benefit of training heavy (still at upper 80's kgs), it forces you to be better with body positions. The new shoes have been great but, already I have ripped the toe rubber off the fore foot of the shoes. This is testament to my aggressive toe hooking and not the quality of the shoe.The shoes have been great! Got the glue out and stuck it down ready for another session with the eye stabbing hot spoon that is the yellow v6+ in 36 hrs.
It's been great meeting new climbers of compatible standard and bouldering the moves with them. I still feel compelled to coach, but I have decided for now to focus on my own climbing for a bit until I have nurtured it to where I would like it to be.
Forgot how much I love bouldering and the small but crucial progressions.
Viva la toe hooks!
Thursday, 28 June 2018
It's been a great few weeks of consistency with sessions at the wall starting to force adaptions in the body. A little stronger, a few kilos lighter and a move towards more flexibility, but most noticeable of all is the movement. It became apparent on a v6 that I had been working for a weeks with slow but steady progress finding subtle body position adjustments then finally the last key move required a heavily weighted rock over onto a small hold requiring balance to allow the release of the hand to make the last hard move. Once I plunged to the mat it was a clear signal to start working flexibility and technique.
Relearning the body positions required to get the most from the available holds, especially as I try the v5/6 problems. I think the hardest I have bouldered indoors is v8 and right now an awkward v3/4 can stop me yet I am succeeding on the odd v5 and breaking down the moves on some v6's. But I am heavy and this will mix up again as I combined the changes that force improvement.
I always believe that strength to weight is king, followed by technique, core and flexibility. Some say technique is as important as strength to weight...
Wednesday, 20 June 2018
Saturday, 16 June 2018
“Shoe with good heel. Turn toe out. Don’t drag heel, pull in a line from toe to heel. Think of the heel and foot more like a hand. You can’t just touch something and expect to hold onto it, same with the heel. Activate it.” (someone who knows!)
Corby Climbing Centre is looking more and more amazing each day. Suzi has really nailed this with the fantastic guys from Rockworks who are delivering what looks like an absolutely outstanding wall design.
As CCC progresses, so is my training and weight reduction. It is starting to feel like I can move a bit more freely now on the wall when I am training. trying to climb every second day and if not, doing alternative workout to keep the weight reduction versus strength gains collision on target. I walked 52 miles in 24 hours at the weekend and lost a few kilos there!
I have done this before back in 2010 when I got 8a fit after a long period away from climbing and although it only takes a few months, every day of that month is focused on the goal. I understand the process very well and the risks during the most injurious periods and the approach required to successfully turn the corner to a more normal training conditions.
# Small power based sessions (1/1.5hrs) completed regularly ( every 2nd day if possible) in conjunction with KCAL reduction and aerobic activity on non climbing days. That's my formula for the first 6 weeks until the weight is down to a more manageable level.
I have been practicing my heel hooking as prescribed and seeing some gains. My butt cheeks hurt more, the more I squeeze my heel hooks, so it must be working! Scarpa shoes arrived but were as tight as my heel hooking buttocks, so acted like an adult and returned them for the bigger size. Can't wait to try them when they're back in a few days.
Monday, 4 June 2018
It’s a process I’m going to aggressively address until I can hook a ripple like it’s a bivi ledge!!!!
Sunday, 3 June 2018
I’ve been working away at getting fit for the opening of Suzi’s Corby Climbing Centre on the 28th of July. So still heavy but dropping around one kilo per week and using the extra weight to train strength on the fingers. Lots of work to do to get coaching fit again but really psyched to get back into a climbing lifestyle again.
Friday, 23 February 2018
|Working things out!|
Tuesday, 30 January 2018
Perhaps the lack of creativity in my role and the lack of development played a large part in my experience as I am sure the right role surrounded my the right team could be fulfilling and meaningful.
I enjoy learning, teaching and training, so that's what I have designed for myself for 2018.
|A 72kg version|
I have given myself till May to get to a manageable climbing weight in anticipation of my wife's charity iDID Adventure opening the new Corby Climbing Centre in the spring. All very exciting and great to have a climbing gym 12.5 minutes from our cottage (just sayin!)
Will probably begin upper body training with things like reverse pull-ups to wake up the muscles from the 18 month hibernation to avoid injury.
It feels like I'm coming back to life...
Saturday, 23 December 2017
Saturday, 8 July 2017
Saturday, 3 June 2017
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The cost is £50.00 for the six week programme.
Contact firstname.lastname@example.org for further details or to register for this training cycle.
Friday, 2 June 2017
Sunday, 25 September 2016
It feels a little weird to be retraining without a specific project or goal in mind. But it also feels good for me.
After four weeks I'm finally beginning to enjoy the bouldering sessions for the fun of the movement and not like hauling a bull around. Once you start moving on rock something resembling what you know you can, it motivates me. It feels good as I love that movement.
In Glasgow I was lucky enough to have easy access to world class bouldering centre called The Climbing Academy and this access just motivates you more and more and eventually the training stops being training and becomes fun and a large part of your social life, a climbing lifestyle if you like (be it indoors).
So, it feels like I need to concentrate on gaining more access to bouldering and build that back into my weekly lifestyle.
Been doing more press ups for the elbows and shoulders. Need rock shoes that fit and will improve my heel and toe techniques.
Friday, 23 September 2016
Saturday, 17 September 2016
Moved my diary to weeks so that when I was being lazy I could hide it easier. Always a good tactic to remain strategically motivated :)
A good week with finger strength gains noticeable during my bouldering and systems session. Happy with strength to weight at this stage.
Need to increase antagonistic training for balance and injury avoidance.
Stretching needs more love. Again! Keep saying it..
Monday, 12 September 2016
Weighted finger hangs on front three then back three. Working enslaved fingers for quicker gains. Then some reverse one arm work.
No run today. Feeling a little stronger with this weight. Keep up the same strategy for now.
I was 65 kilos back then...
Sunday, 11 September 2016
Saturday, 10 September 2016
Friday, 9 September 2016
Weight is coming down...
Wednesday, 7 September 2016
Tuesday, 6 September 2016
Monday, 5 September 2016
Sunday, 4 September 2016
Had a longer deeper stretch. Forearms feel tight after yesterday.
Enjoyed my core work yesterday and can feel it today a little. Here's the 2nd clip of the ultimate core cave!
Saturday, 3 September 2016
Friday, 2 September 2016
|Weighted Finger hangs|
Finally got down to some training with a short weighted finger hanging session to get the fingers in the loop. Stretching, some core and probably a run later to keep driving the weight down slowly. Good to train heavy but need to get lighter to avoid injury for when the campus rungs arrive.
I reckon I am onsighting about 6b+ at moment and red pointing about 7a! It's been a long time since fingers have seen any structured training! I love that feeling you get when your finger strength begins to develop. Should come back quickly if I am consistent in training. Just got to get that fire burning...
Thursday, 1 September 2016
Wednesday, 31 August 2016
|A sunset from the White Spider|
I awoke around 6am this morning and decided to try and begin the process by making a strong coffee, two slices of chunky toast with Marmite (love it!) and unrolled the yoga mat out the back under the sky with a lovely rising sun shining across the garden.
Stuck on the headphones playing Castaway and began some light stretching. Someone once said to me on an island "do something six times and it becomes habit". I love listening to music when staring up at the sky, past your washing on the line, into the first layer of clouds and watching a jet force it's path across the view out of sync with the rest of nature. It reminds me of a bad red point! Unlike the glider which reminds me of a perfect solo, on a perfect day, high up, in a perfect place.
I was thinking about what areas of my body that I should begin to focus on first and I have come up with these elements based on my experience of self and climbing:
- general flexibility
- static finger strength
- and eventually campus strength
I also realized this morning that it is all about something more for me. Getting in touch with your body is one of the most strengthening things for the mind, for my well being anyway. No great news to most, but actually living it takes commitment. But I want balance this time. I want it all to fuel my happiness.
|A sunrise in the Pyrenees|
Referrals from clients:
"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)
" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)