Saturday, 21 December 2013
Friday, 20 December 2013
|Detraining with mi amiga during elbow rehab in 2012 in Spain|
With complete cessation of exercise training, a significant reduction in V ˙O2max and a decrease in plasma volume occur within 2 weeks; all prior functional gains are dissipated within 2 to 8 months, even if routine low- to moderate-intensity physical activity has taken the place of training (Shephard 1994).
Muscular strength and power are reduced at a much slower rate than V˙O2max, particularly during the first few months after an athlete discontinues resistance training (Fleck and Kraemer 1987).
In fact, no decrement in either strength or power may occur for the first 4 to 6 weeks after training ends (Neufer et al.1987).
After 12 months, almost half of the strength gained might still be retained if the athlete remains moderately active (Wilmore and Costill 1994).
Tuesday, 10 December 2013
|Blobs and rungs from Spain|
Sunday, 24 November 2013
For 6 month membership for £25 contact email@example.com
Friday, 15 November 2013
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
|'Chillin the fook out' or freezing!|
The top pitch of Strand E2 5b, Gogarth.
If your looking to get fit for a January rock trip or longer term plan for spring trad, then the beginning of December is sensible time to act by joining our December Team...
|Right Wall, E5 6a, The Cromlech, North Wales UK|
We are offering a 6 week Online Dual Factor Program for £100 starting December or a 3 month Program starting January for a spring peak for £200. Please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for details.
Saturday, 2 November 2013
|The Doc and my surfing landlady!|
Friday, 18 October 2013
|Malcolm Simth on the crux of Blood Diamond (8c+), Anvil|
Please contact email@example.com to arrange access to our online training documents.
Owen on working maximal finger strength at the Beacon in North Wales.
|Owen on working maximal finger strength at the Beacon in North Wales.|
|Bouldering in Pyrenees.|
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Finding inspiration in climbing for me, has always been about finding the truth in what I am doing and why. The motivation is driven by that single belief that something exceptional can happen and working out what part one needs to play to be part of it. Being open to others and taking inspiration from them to keep you going or closing a little and training alone without interruption from others, can work simultaneously and so I suppose for me, knowing when to do what feels right is the key.
Training obviously needs structure, but the motivation to train hard for sustained periods comes from the mind. Learning more about the interruptions from the mind explained more to me about my erratic performance on rock. Learning to approach climbing with as much focus on being relaxed and as little about performance whilst concise with action in the moment on the climb, is something I have been trying to embed in my psyche for over a year now... A kind of empty headed approach with just one thought of 'UP'!
|Bouldering in the Pyrenees (Photo: Ruth Jenkins)|
I think that coaching and transferring a 'real' motivation to others is directly linked with finding honesty in the situation and dealing with it openly to build trust for tougher times, as often needed when trying to do something exceptional. Believing that something exceptional can happen is perhaps the difference that hold things together when the apparent blockages seem un-achievable otherwise, the apparently un-achievable is just allowed to sadly become unbelievable...
Exception: "An action that is not part of ordinary operations or standards."
|Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France|
"I've had the pleasure of meeting some coaches in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying our training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:
-Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National
Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.
-David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
-Juan Martín Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
-Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.
Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!” (Eva Lopez)"
Thursday, 3 October 2013
|Jo sending Silk Teddies (7c)|
I began coaching Jo in August 2011 at Ratho in Edinburgh, then a board session, then onto the full program for two long seasons. We have climbed and trained together in the UK, Spain and the French Pyrenees and it was great to hear of her recent news of red pointing two 7c's within a few weeks of each other. Although her previous career was modelling in Tokyo, her ability to train daily and change her body for climbing has been mind blowing.
|Jo working an 8a in French Pyrenees|
|Jo and Amanda at Dunkeld, Scotland|
... 8a next year? No PRESSURE!...
To join up with ReAch Online Dual Factor Program then please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for information. English and Spanish Programs available...
Saturday, 21 September 2013
|Mark McGowan on FA on Gozo Island|
If you climb between 6a and 7c outdoors and looking to train harder for better results in your sport climbing the get in touch.
|Youth Coaching in Siurana, Spain|
Estamos reclutando 5 nuevos clientes para nuestro Equipo de octubre para nuestro programa de Factor dual de en línea 6 semanas (de habla Inglés o español). Por favor, póngase en contacto con email@example.com para concertar obtener más información. El costo del programa es de £ 100 o € 100 por pagar a través de PayPal
Si escalando al aire libre entre 6a y 7c y buscan entrenar más duro para obtener mejores resultados en tu deporte de escalada y luego ponerse en contacto.
Saturday, 31 August 2013
The guys and girls at the Indy have managed a great turnaround with their transformation of their climbing center on Anglesey in North Wales with a new and very steep Power Endurance lead wall that reminded me of a training facility just outside Barcelona that I visited (a very contemporary design!)
|The new Power Endurance Wall|
|Rob setting on the new PE wall|
It was great to be involved in both the wall manufacturing (supplied from Beacon Climbing Walls) and finally route setting with the Indy Team.
|Emma setting the Circuits Board|
|A Stella Job!|
Friday, 30 August 2013
|The New Indy Wall in North Wales|
- Ratho International Climbing Centre for Bouldering competitions and Scottish Youth Series
- Inverness Climbing Centre for Scottish Youth Series
- The Beacon Climbing Centre for lead routes and Welsh Youth Series
- The Indy Climbing Wall for lead routes
Referrals from clients:
"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)
" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)