Friday, 20 December 2013


Detraining with mi amiga during elbow rehab in 2012 in Spain
 It has been nice returning to the campus board after nearly a year off any intensive training since the Pyrenees and I was intrigued as to how long it would take to shift the sessions towards a level of intensity that felt close to previous levels. Completing campus session 4 already feels like it may only need a couple more sessions to get to last years level. It's weird how the body remembers, even after a longish break. The key now, is not to get too greedy on the board and mix it up with route climbing to allow enough recovery as the campus board is deep man! Profundo hombre!

Some interesting research below for those that have been on a break...

With complete cessation of exercise training, a significant reduction in V ˙O2max and a decrease in plasma volume occur within 2 weeks; all prior functional gains are dissipated within 2 to 8 months, even if routine low- to moderate-intensity physical activity has taken the place of training (Shephard 1994). 

Muscular strength and power are reduced at a much slower rate than V˙O2max, particularly during the first few months after an athlete discontinues resistance training (Fleck and Kraemer 1987). 
In fact, no decrement in either strength or power may occur for the first 4 to 6 weeks after training ends (Neufer et al.1987). 

After 12 months, almost half of the strength gained might still be retained if the athlete remains moderately active (Wilmore and Costill 1994).

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)