Sport Climbing: Fall Training or Risk, Value & Commitment?

A lot of coaching focuses on this as it is obviously a big part of climbing because one falls when pushing to the limit.


However, I would suggest that the standard practice of throwing oneself off the local indoor climbing wall on a regular basis, is only a very small part of truly dealing with the fear of falling. I don't think one can eradicate it completely, and that would be destructive as one taps into that adrenaline anyway for that little bit extra. Fear can be used to drive more effort and focus but will obviously have a negative effect if it is all consuming.


So, I feel that the main thing to focus on is the psychological aspect of managing the fear of falling in a way that meets the real issue head on: RISK!


Risk Versus Value:


This is really where I think the biggest scope for improvement is. How much value that is placed on the project by the individual, whether its an on sight attempt with an unsavory run out between bolts or a project red point that is plagued with a bad clip.


If the value is low then the level of risk that one is prepared to invest is low, if the value of success is high then the level of risk that one is prepared to take is higher.


Obviously a tactic for Risk Management (assessment of risks) should be employed to mitigate the risk and also clarify what the risks and implications really are. But once sorted, then one should then be focusing on the level of value that one places on getting the route done or the style of approach required to maximize the opportunity...This level of value that you associate with it is what delivers the level of commitment in your actions.


So,               

(Risk + Assessment) versus Value = Commitment

And so, if one assumes that the level of commitment is really what is the issue in respect of fall training, and that Value is really the main individual variable as most can assess risks and implement mitigating tactics etc...


So by focusing on the very personal the level of value you place on the project or on sight attempt then hopefully that will deliver a better understanding and allow you to place the 'fall' into a secondary place when focusing on the climb. 

Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

Buscamos experimentados entrenadores de escalada que se basan en la región deCataluña.

Reach es una selección única de los entrenadores originario de Escocia, ahoratambién operan en Cataluña.

Si está interesado, por favor markmcgowan01@gmail.com contacto con tu CV ydatos de su escalada y experiencia como entrenador.

www.reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com
www.reachclimbingcoach.com

Únete a nuestro único doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 al mes

Siurana Coaching

Únete a nuestro doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 por mes para el término de su plan de formación: por lo general de 4 meses.


Nos especializamos en un programa de entrenamiento con nuestro Metodologíaúnica de doble factor y han tenido muchos resultados excepcionales hasta la fecha:

• K Gibson: 7b + a 8 en 15 semanas
• A Gordon: 6b + a 7 en 6 semanas

Siurana

Montserrat

Terradets

Por favor, comuníquese con Mark McGowan en markmcgowan01@gmail.com para preguntar acerca de su programa dede formación en línea . Mark también está disponible de 1 a 1 sesiones de entrenamiento en el área de Barcelona escalada(200 km).

View Larger Map

ReAch de doble factor de Programa de Capacitación en línea

Mark McGowan

Ingles:



Join our 'Reach' Dual Factor Online Training Program for 25euros per month for the term of your training plan: usually 4 months.


We specialize in a training program using our unique Dual Factor methodolgy  and have had many exceptional results to date:


K Gibson : 7b+ to 8a in 15 weeks
A Gordon: 6b+ to 7a in 6 weeks


Please contact Mark McGowan at markmcgowan01@gmail.com to inquire about your online training program. Mark will is also available for 1 to 1 coaching sessions within the Barcelona climbing area (200km). 

Flashing 8a at 18 - Ross Kirkland Interview

Ross on Zona 0 (8b) at Siurana, Spain

The Scottish youngster, Ross Kirkland joined us on our 10 week Spanish Stone trip and managed to impress me more than any other climber on the trip. At age 18 he climbed his first 8b with Zona 0 at Siurana and flashed El Segre 8a at Tres Ponts within the first few weeks of the trip. Ross' modesty and logical approach to his climbing is both impressive and inspiring. He is a special talent for Scotland in my view and has lots more to give to climbing... 

MM: Hi Ross, What is your climbing background?

RK: Ive been climbing for 10 years and I started at the age of 8 at Alian Rock in Edinburgh.

I have also TRAD climbed since I was age 11 up to E5 ( a route called Strapadictomy at Froggat Edge). I mainly sport climb and redpointed to 8a at Disblia in Spain this year.

Ive competition climbed since I was 9 via the Brycks then onto the YCS and was a member of the British Youth Team for 1 year.

MM: What did flashing an 8a mean to you?

RK: It was an important step in my climbing career and I felt brilliant after doing it!

MM: What was the process that you went through to prepare for the attempted flash?

RK:  I trained for a number of years and the mental process I went through was that I just decided I liked the look of the route and just wanted to do it (preferably a flash) but I figured I would give it my all.

MM: What happened during your flash ascent? 

RK: I flashed it...that happened!:-) I nearly fell off the crux at 10m up. After that, the route was just about trying to deal with the pump developed at the crux. The route was 55m long and it was reasonably straight forward through the overhanging wall. However, went it went back vertical it was much more technical climbing. 

Grabbing the chain, I felt a real sense of achievement of managing to flash an 8a which was so long.

MM: What advice would you give to a young aspiring climber wanting to flash or on sight at there limit?

RK: Train hard, find the correct 8a and don't over psyche yourself. then they should man up and just do it! ;-)

Ross exacting his finger strength on some crimpy filth!

Ross taking his rest day in a tree!

Marsh Mallow Barbecue!

Ross was kindly supported by the MC of S on his trip

Spanish Stone ...