Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training

Increasing strength is a great way to crack the concrete of a climbing plateau and systems training seems to be the best way that I have found to increase my finger strength...not bouldering. Bouldering is not as deep and is great for honing power but I have always found that structured systems training the most effective then followed by bouldering. To pull powerfully from one hold to another on a boulder problem, you must first be able to hold and pull on the hold first! This is finger 'strength' not power...

To shift into a new level of climbing requires change to what you are doing and for that I find you also need a commitment to the process of what you are trying to achieve...

I have always found that a particular focus on one strategy for a time period of just two weeks with total consistency in the training and recovery provides noticeable results. I have recently been focused on trying to establish a new level of Power Endurance and to do that I have been using a mix of plyometrics and absolute strength tactics to try and lift my capacity for singular power to a higher level before attempting to convert to power endurance.

This style of training (plyometrics), tends to require not only a higher level of strength to control the shock loading as it penetrates the nervous system, but also longer recovery on particular exercises is required.

For our Advanced Plyo-Systems Training Program then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com 

Lead and Speed Climbing Coaching Sessions for Kids at EICA: Ratho

Friday 9th September 2011

Scottish Youth Event 
Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching Prep
Date: 1st October 2011
Venue: EICA: Ratho

Each year MCofS has organised a prep weekend for children who wish to enter the British Championships. This year, for the first time, a Speed Climbing Championship will also be held and the MCofS prep event will this year include advice, information and coaching in speed climbing from MCofS coach Neil McGeachy (ReAch Coaching) and EICA Instructor Callum Forsyth, ably assistend by Scott Forsyth and Sandy Carr from the Quickdraw Club who helped organise the speed discipline for the recent IFSC European Youth Cup.

With the British Championships being held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena this year, the MCofS prep event is being organised in association with EICA: Ratho and is open to all children who competed in the Youth Climbing Series in Scotland, members of the GB Team and any other children resident in Scotland between 13yr and 19yrs old who may wish to have a go.

Nic Crawshaw, EICA Climbing Instructor Team Leader said,
"We are delighted to be hosting the first ever British Speed Climbing Championship at the EICA. We have the only IFSC world record format speed wall in the UK and have athletes from as far afield as the USA coming to train on the facility. Speed climbing is shortlisted as a future Olympic sport and with support from the MCofS this facility will allow us to train the champions of tommorrow."

Full details and an application form can be downloaded from the 'Kids Events' page. Non Members of MCofS can attend: they must join the MCofS (in order to ensure liability insurance) as Youth Members which is being offered at the reduced rate of £10.

NOTE:
The BLCC 2011 will be held at EICA: Ratho on the weekend of October 15th - 16th. For the first time it will include a Speed Climbing Championship on the purpose built speed wall in the Arena. The competition is open to anyone resident in the UK. There are 11 categories of Youth, Junior, Senior and Veteran for climbers born between 1967 and 1992.

Children born between 1992 and 1998 are eligible to compete in the BLCC. They MUST be capable of climbing on lead.Competing in the Speed competition involves top-rope climbing belayed from below. Climbers can compete in both disciplines.

More details of the British Championships can be found HERE