In order to develop maximal strength for climbing, heavy loads must be exercised, greater than 85% one repetition maximum. This permits only a small number of repetitions, between 1 and 5, per set. Maximal effort is required on each activity and as such this type of training is very taxing.
Long rest intervals to allow recovery are required between sets and only a small number of exercises should make up the sessions .
To further aid recovery and allow maximal effort to be performed a vertical session design is preferable to a horizontal session design. In other words, one set of each exercise should be performed in sequence and repeated rather than completing all the sets for one exercise before moving on to the next.
Bodybuilders tend to isolate a muscle group and work it to exhaustion. climbers on the other hand should train movements rather than muscles.
Unlike bodybuilding, where the only aim is to increase the size and appearance of muscles, strength training programs for sport ultimately must develop either explosive power or muscular endurance. However, rather than immediately embarking on a program to improve either or both of these components, a more effective approach is to first build a solid foundation...
Basic Strength
Basic strength training programs adapt the body for more strenuous resistance training later on. It's objective is to prepare the body by targeting all of the major muscle groups, tendons, ligaments and joints helping to prevent injury.
The less experienced a climber is, the more time they will need to spend developing foundational strength before progressing onto more advanced forms of resistance training. But even experienced climbers should set aside some time during the year to complete a phase of basic strength training. It can help to redress some of the muscle imbalances that inherently occur within intense climbing activity.
Strength Phase for 2 Peaks
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