Thursday, 14 February 2013

Recovery... Part 1.

 Been training at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales, where I am beginning the path back to fitness again after a few months recovery in Scotland after returning from the Pyrenees. It seems to take a few visits to relax properly at a new training venue and begin to get the best from oneself on lead. Each week brings small progressive steps towards last years fitness. First session began with a 6c fail on the last move, 2nd then progressed to a 7a, then a 7a in approach shoes a few sessions later and now I am completely hooked on working sessions on a great 7c+ to try and get into a power endurance environment again.

Applying the tactics I learned last year where one concentrates on the volume/number of working sessions on a route above your standard as the training objective to build some power endurance. I am not yet 7c+ fit but have got up to 3 goes on the route on the last sessions, so aiming for 4 will by default lift my PE and later, an accidental red point! Then move maximal finger strength up a notch then change to a harder environment again.

Climbing on lead feels different this year with less angst and much more relaxed approach focusing on each move with less noise or ambition getting in the way of what I feel will be my most enjoyable years climbing... ever!

Ben on the 7a at The Beacon Climbing Centre
Ive been coaching a friend Ben on a  great 7a at the Beacon and I reckon we will chain it soon. It's great to see someone stretch themselves, but also I am learning from Ben about keeping a high level of fun in  climbing as the overriding factor which is reflecting back into my climbing.

Last year I concentrated on increasing flexibility and core and this year I am hoping to focus and change my psychological approach to my climbing and also introduce sports massage support for more effective recovery to maximise each session for a great summer in North Wales. More on that next...

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)