Wednesday 21 March 2012

Having your period!

FA Super Furry Animals on Gozo Island

Periodization or working to a 'peak' is something that most climbers
who maybe aren't progressing as well as they would like, tend not to
engage properly in.

Its a strategic approach and therefore tactics and results aren't
always obvious nor instant.

It is not really about the chosen moment or exact timing of the 'peak'
that makes the big difference in performance. It's obviously the
training that has gone before and wither one has sacraficed weekly,
monthly or quarterly performance for the sake of THE chosen peak
period.

Training over the top of everything (even other training - Dual Factor
Theory) is a tough environment to stay in for a substantial time. 1
month/ 30 days, 3 months/90 days, 6 months/180 days.
Every day some part of your body is being worked while other parts are
in pain recovering. Its hard and that's why few really do it.

Training in a periodized environment is just training in a focused way
that maximises the time , to get the biggest benefits from the
application of processes that are in a particular order culminating in
a volume taper against an increase in intensity and finally a peak.
Eg for me the order is:
1. Strength training
2. Power
3. Power Endurance

But it's this stuff which I think builds the improvement through focus
and consistancy and develops increased performance.
Others may mix and intertwine their strength with power with PE but I
mostly prefer to isolate.

Rest and recovery is obviously a key part of a strategic training
environment and is one of the hardest parts to manage due to the urge
to keep training instead of recovering to a physical peak state...

Referrals from clients:



"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)


" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)