Sunday, 24 August 2014

Working the core... No sex?

Grotte de Sabart 
It was something I paid little attention to when I returned to climbing in 2010 but it quickly became obvious as an important factor for contemporary climbing.

For my sins, I probably had my most effective core when training with Haston in the Pyrenees for the cave climbing in Grotte de Sabart.

Knee bar rest on 8b 
After 4 sessions on a project at the cave we would head up to his 'boot camp' for further core work which involved all sorts of training torture  with heavy weights on chest during inverted sit ups which was sometimes finished with a run up the mountain to completely annihilate what core was left until it was difficult just standing up.

In the cave in the morning, he would growl if my core seemed anything less than robust during what became our 8a warm up discouraging me from morning sex with my girl friend at the time on core days! For a 28m cave route, core is absolutely key, I failed on the 8b. So the moral of the story is no sex on core days, or no core on sex days or something like that...

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)