|John at TCA Bristol Competition for |
Eiger Paraclimb 2015
- Peripheral Vision only
- Bind from birth (100%)
- Tunnel Vision (3%)
John employed me for coaching and subsequently sight calling for him in the World Championships.
|Gwyn (Perif VI)|
|John (Tunnel VI) on a V4 at|
Birmingham Bouldering Centre
As someone who hadn't witnessed climbing movement, John has no concept of what position the body should be in or undertake to set up for the best possible chance of catching or reaching the next hold. We use various methods but we are exploring some new stuff now that will hopefully give him a climbing style that is less mechanical and more intuitive through more and more experiential exposure to harder moves through bouldering. I am an advocate of improving peoples climbing technique through increasing the difficulty, because when working harder moves, there is no where to hide and you are forced to adopt the correct body position or your off, off off... Until you climb it like it needs to be climbed.
Changes to our calling strategy is also under review to allow more time for processing a call to a body position then to a move...
Hard moves need hard work. Hard work needs time. We have 3 months to make the transition before Austria.