
The Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team's winter lecture series continues into February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford.
With an ascent of Rare Lichen E9 6c in summer 2013 and previous ascents including a redpoint of Predator F8b at Malham and a flash ascent of Statement of Youth F8a at Lower Pen Trwyn, Emma is one of the most accomplished female climbers currently operating in the UK.
Emma was born in Exeter in 1986, but grew up in the Lake District where she started climbing at a young age with her Dad. During the lecture, Emma will talk about her climbing through the years from growing up in the Lake District, competing in youth competitions, living in Sheffield and finally moving to North Wales where she currently resides.
Venue: Beacon Climbing Centre
Address: Cibyn Estate, Caernarfon, LL55 2BD
Date: Friday 28th January 2014
Time: 7:30pm (bar open all evening)
Tickets: £8 donation online (available shortly through the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team website).
(or £10 suggested donation on the door - cash only)
Monday, 13 January 2014
February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford.
Saturday, 21 December 2013
Ben Moon's Evolution...

Ben Moon...
"Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring.
I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around!
After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat of while setting up for the last big move. Although frustrating I was really very happy because I was sure I could do the route, maybe even this autumn. Unfortunately, as is often the case in sport-climbing this wasn’t to be and 2 days later I popped my left knee on the crucial heel and toe lock on the lower crux. It made a sickening sound as the ligaments tore and my body suddenly felt very vulnerable. I knew immediately that was it for the year.
It’s so strange being back into redpointing after so many years away. It’s so much more high pressure than bouldering, basically because you invest so much more time and energy, both mental and physical. I guess that’s why I gave it up in the first place. The flip side of this is that the rewards are huge if you do succeed. One of the most inspiring bits of news this year was Paul Reeves eventual success on Cry Freedom after many days effort over many years at the age of 51. When I bumped into him at Ravens Tor several months after his successful red-point and asked him how it felt to finally clip the belay he told me he was still basking in the glow of his success. That feeling is a big part of what’s driving me on.
I know it’s not for everyone this single-minded focus but I do love to be working towards a goal in my life and I am sure Paul Reeve feels the same. Since getting back into sport climbing I have really enjoyed the mental and physical challenge of working and redpointing a hard route. It’s a rollercoaster of a ride but you’ve just got to roll with the punches, embrace the failures, hang in there and hopefully you will get the outcome you desire. I don’t say that flippantly because I know how hard it is to do that. Another major factor driving me on is my age and not knowing how many more years of pulling on small crimps my body can take. Hopefully many more but I am not taking anything for granted.
I hope you all had a good 2013 and I wish you good health and happiness for 2014."
- See more at: http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/evolution/#sthash.wemOysj3.QIyorlrl.dpuf
Friday, 20 December 2013
Detraining...
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| Detraining with mi amiga during elbow rehab in 2012 in Spain |
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With complete cessation of exercise training, a significant reduction in V ˙O2max and a decrease in plasma volume occur within 2 weeks; all prior functional gains are dissipated within 2 to 8 months, even if routine low- to moderate-intensity physical activity has taken the place of training (Shephard 1994).
Muscular strength and power are reduced at a much slower rate than V˙O2max, particularly during the first few months after an athlete discontinues resistance training (Fleck and Kraemer 1987).
In fact, no decrement in either strength or power may occur for the first 4 to 6 weeks after training ends (Neufer et al.1987).
After 12 months, almost half of the strength gained might still be retained if the athlete remains moderately active (Wilmore and Costill 1994).
Tuesday, 10 December 2013
A campus strategy for power...
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| Campus rungs |
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| Blobs and rungs from Spain |
I dare you!
contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com if you would like a programme...
Sunday, 24 November 2013
Online Data Bank Update: High-intensity interval training (HIIT)
Friday, 15 November 2013
Training Strategies at ReAch...
The ReAch Dual Factor Training Programme works along the principle of developing your power first and the maintaining of it second. So instead of performing a high volume of training at a low intensity you perform a low volume of training at a high intensity.This means a much more productive return from your training because you can't perform high intensity exercise as often as low intensity exercise. This will free up valuable days of your week.
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Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for your own online programme.
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
Recruiting for December Team for ReAch Dual Factor Online Program...
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| 'Chillin the fook out' or freezing! The top pitch of Strand E2 5b, Gogarth. |
If your looking to get fit for a January rock trip or longer term plan for spring trad, then the beginning of December is sensible time to act by joining our December Team...
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| Siurana, Espana |
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| Right Wall, E5 6a, The Cromlech, North Wales UK |
We are offering a 6 week Online Dual Factor Program for £100 starting December or a 3 month Program starting January for a spring peak for £200. Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details.
Llanberis Accommodation for Climbers, Surfers and other humans...
Saturday, 2 November 2013
Dr Bott...
I've been lucky enough to be coaching and training with the Doc. I don't coach many people these days on a 1 to 1 but I have always made friends with those I do. The Doc is inspirational in her pursuit to get rock climbing fit for Mexico at end of the year. A Phd and all round cool dude and new friend, it has been great working with the Doc and a big thank you from me for helping me with my own research and Phd application. Fingers crossed Doc!
He tenido la suerte de estar coaching y entrenamiento con el doctor. Yo no entreno muchas personas en estos dÃas en un 1 a 1, pero siempre me he hecho amigos con los que hago. El doctor es inspirador en su búsqueda de conseguir escalada en fuerte para un viaje de roca de México a finales de año. Una Phd y nuevo amigo, ha sido genial trabajar con el doctor y un gran agradecimiento de mi parte por ayudarme con mi propia investigación y aplicación Phd. Dedos cruzados doctor!
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| The Doc and my surfing landlady! |
Friday, 18 October 2013
ReAch Training and Online Documents - 6 Month Membership
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| Malcolm Simth on the crux of Blood Diamond (8c+), Anvil |
Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange access to our online training documents.

Owen on working maximal finger strength at the Beacon in North Wales.
| Owen on working maximal finger strength at the Beacon in North Wales. |
| Bouldering in Pyrenees. |
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Exceptionally empty Headed!
Finding inspiration in climbing for me, has always been about finding the truth in what I am doing and why. The motivation is driven by that single belief that something exceptional can happen and working out what part one needs to play to be part of it. Being open to others and taking inspiration from them to keep you going or closing a little and training alone without interruption from others, can work simultaneously and so I suppose for me, knowing when to do what feels right is the key.
Training obviously needs structure, but the motivation to train hard for sustained periods comes from the mind. Learning more about the interruptions from the mind explained more to me about my erratic performance on rock. Learning to approach climbing with as much focus on being relaxed and as little about performance whilst concise with action in the moment on the climb, is something I have been trying to embed in my psyche for over a year now... A kind of empty headed approach with just one thought of 'UP'!
| Bouldering in the Pyrenees (Photo: Ruth Jenkins) |
I think that coaching and transferring a 'real' motivation to others is directly linked with finding honesty in the situation and dealing with it openly to build trust for tougher times, as often needed when trying to do something exceptional. Believing that something exceptional can happen is perhaps the difference that hold things together when the apparent blockages seem un-achievable otherwise, the apparently un-achievable is just allowed to sadly become unbelievable...
Exception: "An action that is not part of ordinary operations or standards."
Training from 6a to 8a in 180 days: workshop
| Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France |
6a to 8a in 180 days Workshop
"I've had the pleasure of meeting some coaches in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying our training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:-Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National
Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.
-David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
-Juan MartÃn Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
-Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.
Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!” (Eva Lopez)"
Thursday, 3 October 2013
Jo Lucas ... 6c to 7c
| Jo sending Silk Teddies (7c) |
I began coaching Jo in August 2011 at Ratho in Edinburgh, then a board session, then onto the full program for two long seasons. We have climbed and trained together in the UK, Spain and the French Pyrenees and it was great to hear of her recent news of red pointing two 7c's within a few weeks of each other. Although her previous career was modelling in Tokyo, her ability to train daily and change her body for climbing has been mind blowing.
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| Jo working an 8a in French Pyrenees |
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| Alex |
| Jo and Amanda at Dunkeld, Scotland |
... 8a next year? No PRESSURE!...
To join up with ReAch Online Dual Factor Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for information. English and Spanish Programs available...
Labels:
Joanne Lucas
Saturday, 21 September 2013
Recruiting for ReAch Online Dual Factor Program beginning October
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| Mark McGowan on FA on Gozo Island |
If you climb between 6a and 7c outdoors and looking to train harder for better results in your sport climbing the get in touch.
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| Youth Coaching in Siurana, Spain |
Estamos reclutando 5 nuevos clientes para nuestro Equipo de octubre para nuestro programa de Factor dual de en lÃnea 6 semanas (de habla Inglés o español). Por favor, póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com para concertar obtener más información. El costo del programa es de £ 100 o € 100 por pagar a través de PayPal
Si escalando al aire libre entre 6a y 7c y buscan entrenar más duro para obtener mejores resultados en tu deporte de escalada y luego ponerse en contacto.
Saturday, 31 August 2013
New Indy Climbing Wall now open today... Where Barcelona meets North Wales!
From this...
To this...
The guys and girls at the Indy have managed a great turnaround with their transformation of their climbing center on Anglesey in North Wales with a new and very steep Power Endurance lead wall that reminded me of a training facility just outside Barcelona that I visited (a very contemporary design!)
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| The new Power Endurance Wall |
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| Rob setting on the new PE wall |
It was great to be involved in both the wall manufacturing (supplied from Beacon Climbing Walls) and finally route setting with the Indy Team.
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| Emma setting the Circuits Board |
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| A Stella Job! |
Labels:
Indy Climbing Wall,
Route setting
Friday, 30 August 2013
Route Setting in the UK
| The New Indy Wall in North Wales |
Mark McGowan is available for route setting in the UK
Route setting Experience:
- Ratho International Climbing Centre for Bouldering competitions and Scottish Youth Series
- Inverness Climbing Centre for Scottish Youth Series
- The Beacon Climbing Centre for lead routes and Welsh Youth Series
- The Indy Climbing Wall for lead routes
Rate is £12 per hour plus agreed travel costs
Based in North Wales
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com
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Referrals from clients:
"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)
" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)





































