Friday, 23 May 2014

Campus Sessions... Driving Power from 7b+ to 8a

Good wood from TCA! Campus rungs.
I've been working with Owen on a couple of projects ranging from 7c, 8a to 8a+ at the Ormes and in the Llanberis slate quarries... Including the particularly gnarly 80's classic from Jerry Moffat (Masterclass).
Owen chaining his first 7c 
Having sent his 7c a few weeks ago and had a taste of  the difficulties to be expected from some harder routes up to 8a+, it is time to do the strength/power work in between working the projects for the journey that we are looking to go on from 7b+ fitness to 8a power and we have opted to focus our immediate training efforts with campus sessions to improve 'pull through' on smallish edges.

In a session, I prefer to focus on maximal power movements on the smallest rungs with as big a gap between them as one can muster with control, sets of just two moves until the power level drops then move on to short gaps with more sets still on the small rungs, then finally on bigger rungs on wider gaps again. Effectively draining the power system in a short but effective period (takes about 90 minutes after warm up). I generally do just 2 campus sessions of this nature per week then change the intensity and reduce the volume.

Hopefully after a couple of weeks of this combined with project sessions in between training, we will see some marked improvement in power on smaller holds and we can move on to the next tactic...

Campus Sessions

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"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

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