Gwyn's return to training after a 2 week cycling trip kicked off today at the Beacon with some bouldering, top rope work on a 7b, maximal finger hangs on the Beastmaker then blob campusing and finishing him off with feet on campus up/downs to failure. A hard session to return from a break but we have just 3 weeks to get to our best for the competition at Manchester.
Gwyn's climbing style is now that of a fully sighted climber where he moves towards the next holds with anticipation of where they are likely to be. We discussed this after our session waiting on the Llanberis bus and where this change is coming from. It seems that it is a combination of increased confidence and less holds to choose from as the routes are harder, but mainly we feel that a greater understanding of what the holds are that he has in his hands and an expectation of where and what the next hold is likely to be based on his increasing experience of movement. That takes work and he has...
I chose to put Gwyn on a 7b (even though we haven't completed 7a yet) because to compete at a higher level he has to simply climb at that level as much as possible so that he pulls, reaches and thinks at that level until it becomes how he climbs... That way, he gets better!
I can't wait to see the guys and girls at Manchester demonstrate their strength, ingenuity in working with one limb less than most and their hugely positive spirit in overcoming the climbing put in front of them. They inspire me the most in climbing as there has been no worst sight in my life (looking in and out) than an amputated spirit...
Posts
