Sunday, 25 May 2014

Same Day Route Projecting and Campus Training... Facing Change

Went on an 8a in the morning then a campus session in the afternoon with Owen to try and drive things a bit harder to break his current plateau in strength and psychological attitude to what he can do in a day when trying to push his level.

It's hard to have a few burns on a project at your grade limit then go straight to the wall for a campus session, but it is this kind of change in tactics that I hope will see Owen begin to bank new gains in his climbing and what he thought was 'training hard' before will evidently not be the case and that our bodies and minds can endure more than we think. 

Owen working another 8a project...

Indy Campus Board
I trained hard in the Pyrenees with Haston for a few months a while back and saw my depth of fitness and mental attitude change massively, and hopefully Owen will begin to see the benefits in a few weeks of 'double shifts' at the crag then back to the campus board. Once we have a lift in ability and change in understanding his true potential, then we change tactics again...

Fight Club in Grotte de Sabart, Pyrenees
Red pointing a great 8a+ in Pyrenees 
'Double shift' after project sessions

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"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)