Saturday, 8 November 2014

Getting some Good Wood: Training for a Project...

Good wood! Pyrenees GR10 Project
Old wood! 6a to 8a torture chamber in Glasgow (2010)
Very good wood...
Wood on wood! Campus rungs on board to drive
 maximal contact finger strength

Climbing a lot will only get you so much stronger, but I have found to break through a strength plateau, then you need some wood...

I've found that real strength and fitness gains come from methodically training your body and mind week by week (in cycles) using systems resources and methods. World Cup Competitors don't get to that level by just climbing a lot:

  1. Finger boards, 
  2. Campus rungs, 
  3. Campus Board
  4. 45 boards, 
  5. or a mix of all things wood!

Obviously getting stronger also requires training your core and supporting climbing specific training with antagonistic exercises and weights to reduce chances of injury. But the fingers are first in the chain and are the main focus for improvement.

Develop maximal strength then power then power endurance at the appropriate 'project level'. There is no point moving to PE at too low a level, so therefor you have to build that strength level first, then convert to dynamic strength (Power) and finally develop the correct level of power to Power Endurance - this has to be based on the level you are aiming for or projecting.

Jo & Marie strength training on the board (Scotland,UK)
So don't be random, build good methods with good wood and break the plateau in your climbing...

Random madness with wood on the GR10 project! (French Pyrenees)

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)