Sunday, 16 November 2014

Training back to fitness and beyond...

Having recovered in the main from my shoulder injury from hitting a fence post... I've started training specifically to increase my bouldering level beyond my previous f7b.

Kyloe In The Woods from Will Atkinson on Vimeo.

Below is my personal analysis of what I need to do to try and get beyond my previous plateau...

Planned Strategy:
  • Increase maximal finger strength
  • Build core strength
  • Strengthen shoulders from injury
  • Increase flexibility and strengthen  hip flexors and ham string for heel hooking!
  • Consistent Antags training


Session #1 :

  • Bouldering maximal moves ( work 2 moves above goal, then 5 move sessions with shorter rests,)
  • Fingerboarding - maximal hangs 5 grips x 5 secs x 5 sets
  • Core - bar work
  • Stretching throughout during rests
  • Antags

Actual session #1:

Bouldered the parts of the f7c that I could for 30 mins with big rests - HARD!

Did some easier problems with heel hooks in them up to f6c+

Great fingerboard session concentrating on enslaved fingers in vertical sequence for 20 mins mixed with Antags...

Didn't do core... Long way to go!

2nd part of #1: Began working on another f7c. could top easier moves and  did some half moves on crux area. Miles off! did moves with feet on bigger footholds of any colour to get body,mind and fingers used to moves with muscle memory. Productive but need to engage more in projectio!...

Session #2:

Thought I did a f7b+, but it turns out I went wrong way. Loser! Found the right route but too hard. still havent engaged in training yet. Long long way to go!

Referrals from clients:

"...This training season I decided to get all the help I can to speed up my improvement. I needed guidance to work towards my goals in long term. I also needed more vision and opinions about my exercises and weak links. I am glad I can share my training with Mark..." (Ville Mustonen, Finland)

" I met Mark in Glen Nevis on his return to climbing to check out some lines he had in mind for me, I wasn't really training at this point but after a day or two talking and training with him I had a much more structured idea of what to do to improve and I did" (Kev Shields)